February 14, 2022 |
Where Will We Go Next? That was the question asked by Ottessa Moshfegh in the short story she wrote to accompany Friday’s Proenza Schouler show. The NYFW mainstay is just shy of turning 20, and emerging from a global pandemic, designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez are reestablishing the codes of the Proenza woman’s wardrobe.
In a quest to find beauty amidst the chaos of day-to-day life, the twosome took to toying with the human form. The brand’s usual understated cuts came narrow at the waist before falling into bias-cut skirts that ballooned into elegant formations at the ankle. “Experimentation and play are key, perhaps now more than ever,” said the pair, meeting their reliance on neutral hues with vivid lilacs, shimmering cornflower blues and a crimson red animal print that glitched as the models walked.
Soundtracked by a live musical composition from Eartheater, easy-going tailoring was corseted via woollen belts wrapped tightly around the wearer. The look signified dressed-up comfort: not exactly abandoning the slouched ‘fits we wore through lockdown, but sculpting a uniform that feels right to step back into the world in. These are clothes you can rely on.
Photography courtesy of Proenza Schouler.
