February 28, 2025 |
“Raw glamour”, that’s what Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons called their collection which challenged the stereotypes of feminine beauty. Simons explained, that in fashion, those stereotypes “very often results in sculptural designs,” and so he and co-designer Mrs Prada decided to challenge this with loose oversized silhouettes that stood away from the body, or were made in stiff leather that defied the idea of flow. Nothing fitted in a conventional way. Oversized pyjamas bunched at the waist. Loose sack dresses some in bright, bad taste floral prints but mostly in black herringbone, were punctuated with bows or big covered buttons. There was something childlike in the fit. As for the sombre colour palette, it was chosen to reflect the times. “We are in a very black moment,” said Mrs Prada.
Luxury tropes were upended. A plush shearling coat looked like it was wrapped in cling film. There something deliciously provocative and perverse in covering something so natural in something so unnatural but it’s exactly the kind of flex that Prada fans love. They will also clamour for pointy, ladylike court shoes that had a raw, unfinished seam running down to the toe.
The beauty approach was equally perverse with models sporting mussed-up, slept-in hair and dark, heavy brows. This was a marmite collection. Half the people loved it half were left utterly perplexed. But what makes Prada great is that there’s nothing wishy washy about it – ever. Mrs Prada and Mr Simons always have big ideas and a strong point of view. It pushes boundaries and this collection in particular, was so full of contrary ideas that it challenged the audience to examine their own criteria for beauty. That’s where newness lies.
Photography courtesy of Prada.
