Today’s Prada show came costumed in cinematic parallels. A decade on from when Mrs P invited Willem Dafoe, Gary Oldman, Adrien Brody and Tim Roth to walk her AW12 catwalk, a fresh crop of 10 Hollywood actors flew to Milan to star in the brand’s second physical fashion show since Raf Simons joined as co-creative director in 2020. Kyle MacLachlan commenced proceedings, followed by the likes of Damson Idris, Ashton Sanders, Asa Butterfield, and Jeff Goldblum – who graduated from avid Prada wearer to closing an actual Prada show – clad in an overcoat with mohair armbands and hemline trim, and a smouldering, watchful gaze.
In recruiting these gents, the design duo strived to communicate how these clothes will be worn by real – albeit widely recognisable – men. “They bring a new facet of reality,” notes the press release. Idealised everyday-ism is rooted in workwear uniforms by way of dramatic tailoring. “The collection celebrates the idea of working – in all different spheres and meanings,” said Prada. “It is a practical, everyday thing. But here, you are formally important. You are not casual.”
The spread of Omicron may have put the return to the office on hold, but Simons and Prada create new meaning for the clothes we put on day in, day out. While workwear has become commonplace in luxury fashion and street style, the designers treat overalls with as much esteem as three-piece suits. This pragmatic leaning is translated into smart trousers cut from crinkly nylon, sculpted V-neck jumpers and those overalls, rendered in silk tech and wipe-clean leather (oh so practical). This afforded the twosome room to play with more formal pieces like roomy bombers cinched at the waist, or blazers and Berlin-style leather trench coats with shoulders huge like quarterbacks.
Workwear, formalwear, whatever – you could say today’s world has moved beyond the need for such dress codes. And your right. The lines have never been more blurred. But what Simons and Prada have been able to achieve here is colliding both to become of harmonious, equal importance. Existing as one. Dressing for the everyday has never looked so good.
Photography courtesy of Prada.
