February 17, 2026 |
Noses, perfumers, purveyors of unseen trails, call them what you will. They were once hidden, the silent magicians behind the olfactory concoctions that stirred our senses and imaginations. But increasingly, they have stepped into the limelight to become the rock stars of the beauty world, playing their air guitars to create invisible notes that have the ability to shake, transport, reveal and disguise us. Following the death of Christian Astuguevieille, aged 79, yesterday, look back at Edwina Ings-Chambers’ interview with the master perfumer.
CHRISTIAN ASTUGUEVIEILLE FOR COMME DES GARÇONS
As creative director for Comme des Garçons Parfums, a collaboration between him and Rei Kawakubo that they founded in 1993, Astuguevieille oversees all the fragrances of the house. The first, Eau de Parfum, launched a year later and the brand has established a reputation for creating the unexpected and defying convention.
How would you describe the fragrance DNA of the house?
The freedom to use both beautiful material and the emergence of synthetic notes.
Which fragrance that you’ve created for the house are you most proud of?
Odeur 53 and Odeur 71 for their difference and innovation.
Christian Astuguevieille has been creative director of Comme des Garçons Parfums since founding it with Rai Kawakubo in 1993; photography courtesy of Comme des Garçons
How do the visuals, ad campaign and packaging all come together with the fragrance? How much of that informs your brief and/or how involved are you in that whole package?
My involvement is primarily olfactory. As for the bottle and packaging, it’s a collective effort led by Rei Kawakubo.
What is your process when creating a fragrance? How much time to do you spend in the house archives looking for inspiration and what else do you look to for inspiration?
The creation process begins with seeking a brief in harmony with Rei and collaborating with various perfumers to maintain consistency in the olfactory writing.
What makes a fragrance sell?
A new fragrance sells for various reasons. The scent is very different from other perfumes on the market and aligns with the Comme des Garçons brand. I think it’s important to have consistency within the brand, giving a clear perception to build loyalty among the clients concerned.
What do you love about fragrance?
The vastness of creation, with beautiful raw materials and the innovative research from various laboratories, opens up a realm of possibilities for us.
from left: Odeur 53, Comme des Garçons Eau de Parfum and Comme des Garçons 5 by COMME DES GARCONS; photography by Carolyn Drake
Why and how did you become a nose?
I am not a ‘nose’; I am a creative director. My olfactory discovery began with a collaboration with the historic house of Molinard in 1975.
What are your favourite smells?
My favourite scents are:
• Vetiver
• Tar
• Wind-dried linen
• Fresh green leaves
• Tuberose
• And all kinds of fragrant woods.
What is the biggest challenge to creating a new fragrance? In a crowded marketplace, how do you grab and hold attention?
Stay true to the brand and keep moving forward.
How has the business changed over the course of your career?
The fragrance industry has developed significantly, providing consumers with a greater choice. The most important thing is to remain faithful to a brand’s olfactory signature without worrying about the competition, with the guiding principles of freedom, creation and coherence.
Taken from 10 Magazine Issue 74 – MUSIC, TALENT, CREATIVE.
