Paolo Carzana: Ready-To-Wear SS26

Paolo Carzana is a world-builder. His designs exist in their own realm. One steeped in romance and a poetic tenderness. The designer, who we profiled in the latest issue of 10 Men, chose the Reading Room inside the British Library to unveil his latest collection, the next chapter of sorts in a creative manifesto he says he’s been developing since graduating from Central Saint Martins. Everything he does is made by hand, often using old rags and given their glorious hues thanks to vegetable dies. “It is my dream to slowly build a house, brick by brick, without compromise, and with a team of collaborators who create the foundation, structure and make it a possibility,” he wrote in a letter sent out to the press.

He was fixated on a new definition for the term ‘supernatural’, one that is concentrated on our creatures, our land and our oceans here on earth; how such beauty can feel otherworldly, and how easily it can be spoilt and destroyed by humans. His fragile creations looked as if they had grown onto the models’ bodies, in earthy hues achieved using dyes derived from cream of tartar and lemon juice, as well as muddy reds, pinks and purples the designer said were to represent coral bleaching.

“I created a number of different textiles inspired by many of the endangered and extinct animals,” said Carzana. “To me this was an interesting conflict, because as a vegan I have always stayed away from the use of animals as inspiration in clothing for the many commonly thought reasons and feelings. However, I felt if I can be inspired by the enchanting colour, textures and shapes in an abstract way, it can hopefully encourage us to protect and honour the world we have.” The creature-like inspirations were also channelled via Nasir Mazhar’s brilliant headwear, crafted in the shape of fishes made from cotton rag paper and silk chiffon. “It is devastating to me that these beautiful mammals are endangered at the hands of humans. It made me understand that if we do not change, we will continue our driving force behind the sixth extinction,” wrote the designer, who continues to prove himself as one of the most exciting names showing in the city.