October 4, 2022 |
“To look backwards is to die,” declared Ottolinger’s SS23 show notes. The Berlin-based label is moving its offering forward but co-creative directors Christa Bösch and Cosima Gadient know that evolution doesn’t demand sacrificing their brand codes, rather, enhancing them for the not so distant future.
Breaking the bounds of their comfort zone – chock full of transparent pieces, distressed jersey and denim – an oily, nearly-nude deconstructed belt–meets–bra top paired with low-slung recycled polyester racing trousers opened the show. This mood carried throughout, as models weaved in between guests – who were sat on a giant tessellated pile of mattresses – in leather-laden motorsport sets and spray-on-skinny catsuits. That’s not to say that Ottolinger’s warped staples weren’t abounding, though; it’s just that Bösch and Gadient sought to hone and develop these signatures to signal a move into a more focused high-fashion future. Think gauzier cobwebby knits, wire-threaded and wrapped athleisure elements, and melting ceramic bags expanded into baguette formats for the first time.
The screwy footwear included puffy-strapped and studded sandals, flat-sole candy-colour water-bubble boots and cyber punked-up court shoes dipped in rubber — the only thing more impressive was Ottolinger’s eyewear. To add drop dead to gorgeous, models sported fresh iterations of the brand’s twisted sunnies in new techy colourways.
Outlandish beings have often been cited as sources of inspiration at Ottolinger and this season, the collection was spun on the idea of a mermaid or siren; a beguiling feminine form rising from the indigo water. Whatever this mythical creature may be, she now has a new wardrobe to enchant in.
Photography courtesy of Ottolinger.
