Ottolinger: Ready-To-Wear AW23

The Parisian NASDAQ telecommunications building is undergoing a major renovation. It seemed almost forlorn before the fashion pack descended upon it yesterday, with its paper-peeling walls and stripped-back construction. When Ottolinger entered, it resembled a decrepit rave warehouse, probably in Berlin as opposed to Paris, but the space – like the cool-kid clothes that Christa Bösch and Cosima Gadient sent stomping through the atrium – was at once boardroom and Berghain, 

Avril Lavigne, Halsey and Tyga may have graced the front row, but as soon as the Ottolinger girls fell into step, the focus shifted and became about form and silhouette (and kittens!). Tailoring came into play with oily, sexed-up cuts that somehow managed to remain on the side of maturity and modesty. It was slim, feminine and edgy. Elsewhere, weird anthropomorphic puffer jackets, skirts and trousers juxtaposed shimmering party pieces such as a strapless glitter corset with a matching skirt that was worn with satin pointe-shoe boots done in heeled, Ballerina-style. Adorable little kittens were printed on red mesh dresses and their fur, reimagined as graphic tights. Baby bunnies hopped onto knits. Motocross coats cropped-up alongside equestrian, alien and countryside visual references, bundles of faux fur and Formula 1-style colour-blocking. The design duo, at times, called it “solar-panel chic”.

Ottolinger’s new collaboration with Puma made its debut too, with shoulder bags and high and low-top shoes coming loosely inspired by the sportswear giant’s signature racing shoes. 

Photography courtesy of Ottolinger.

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