Virgil Abloh might have been absent, but his irreverent spirit was in the air at last night’s Off-White SS20 show. Held at the Centre Pompidou museum of contemporary art, it was another chapter in the ongoing celebration of powerful women that inspire Abloh’s creativity. She’s strong, independent and can survive a meteor shower in a hot fuschia sporty gown. To say she’s fierce would be an understatement – you really don’t want to come in the way of an Off-White woman.
The opening introduction to the show was a voiceover by Dr. Mae Jemison, an engineer and physician who is most known for being the first black woman in space. And then a hot cast of supermodels of all generations walked down garments which took cues from Off-White’s Resort 2020 collection. Utility intertwined with unadultered sex appeal, a play of volume involving in twisting and warping streamlined forms. The addition of the space age storyline added complexity to these clothes and assured the conversation was taken to the level of street-luxe Abloh is known for.
The round holes that appeared throughout the collection, both in accessories and ready-to-wear pieces, were an ironic homage to Abloh’s alma mater, the University of Wisconsin. That American state is known as the Cheese State and the motif of holes is seen in sportswear uniforms and souvenirs. But there was nothing cheesy about Off-White SS20. This was elevated womenswear, ready for take-off.
Photographs by Jason Lloyd-Evans.