April 9, 2026 |
With London’s beloved restaurant Zēphyr having just opened in the Côte d’Azur, Monaco, in February of this year, we strolled down the streets of West London to enjoy the original eatery by the Pachamama Group and executive chef executive Tzoulio Loulai who creates and oversees each menu by the group. There, Zēphyr debuted some new additions to its menu to celebrate both the fourth anniversary of the London restaurant’s opening in 2022 alongside the French Riviera launch.
Zēphyr, a Grecian-inspired casual dining restaurant with Naked & Famous, a late-night bar nestled underneath, is situated along the famous stretch of London’s Portobello Road. The restaurant holds its own among the street’s façades – a confident, sun-soaked presence that seems to hum with life before you’ve even stepped inside. Through its wide front windows, you catch glimpses of clinking glasses and conversation, a restaurant in full swing. The kind of energy that spills out onto the pavement and intrigues you from the moment it comes into sight.
On a rainy Friday at the tail end of March, the outside chill feels momentary as we spot Zēphyr in the distance. My open-toe Manolos were not the most appropriate choice for the weather, but felt entirely justified once inside. Crossing the threshold is like slipping quietly into another world. The shift is immediate – a glow of golden light, the chatter of conversation, and a warmth that feels as enveloping emotionally as it does physically. Inside, the space is bathed in soft, honeyed hues that bounce across creamy plaster walls and barn-style wooden beams, their tones lending texture and depth, making the space feel homely. There’s an understated elegance to it all, casual and chic in equal measure.
Every table is occupied – from couples conversing over tall candlelight to larger groups gathered around circular tables, sharing dishes and stories in equal measure. There’s a looseness to the atmosphere, an effortlessness that feels distinctly Mediterranean in spirit.
Our table sat proudly at the heart of Zēphyr, a generous round setting that invited a sense of occasion – it was my birthday, after all. It was dressed with a crisp, immaculately pressed white tablecloth. At the centre, a tall honeycomb-coloured candle flickered gently. Beside it, a whimsical glass sculpture of deep purple grapes caught the candlelight with a jewel-like shimmer. The place setting struck a perfect balance between refinement and ease: weighty silver cutlery laid atop small white china plates, waiting patiently for the procession of dishes to come. Deep coupe glasses poised elegantly on slender green stems added a playful touch of colour to each setting. It felt thoughtful rather than fussy – a simple table setting that still kept the sense of casual Grecian dining at its core.
Around us, the walls were dotted with whimsical artworks – pieces that felt eclectic and fun. Clusters of vibrant glass vases punctuated shelves and corners, their colours echoing the vibrancy of a Mediterranean palette. There was a gentle sense of escapism in the décor, as though each detail had been chosen to transport you somewhere brighter, cheekier and just a little more indulgent than the streets of London.
We began with cocktails. My partner opted for a classic espresso martini, the dark mixture topped with a sand-coloured foam – bold, bitter notes softened by a subtle sweetness, a sharp, spirited start that awakened the palate. Our waiter recommended we also try the Smoky Tommy’s – a best-seller, we were told. It was presented on a silver platter with a bowl of ice to accompany it, then poured from a large glass bottle, the light brown mixture cascading over a single ice cube in a coupe glass. The first sip revealed layers – smoky, sweet, and bright. Notes of charred pineapple mingled with agave, lifted by a zesty tang and the unmistakable warmth of tequila. It was moreish – a tipple that disappeared faster than intended.
The food followed in a procession of colour and texture: a trio of spreads presented in an eclectic collection of vintage crockery, playful in its presentation. The tzatziki was everything it should be – a fresh Grecian classic. The fava bean dip offered something deeper, its earthy base elevated by sweet caramelised shallots alongside sharper pickled ones, finished with a drizzle of caper leaf oil. Lastly, the spicy feta, glowing a vibrant orange, brought warmth and depth – a rich blend of roasted peppers, manouri and chilli flakes folded through salty feta, each bite more delicious than the last.
Alongside the spreads, a generous bread basket was served on gleaming silver trays: warm, pillowy handmade pita, crisp sesame shards and slices of sourdough dusted with oregano. It was the kind of spread that encourages indulgence – tearing, dipping, sharing – where conversation briefly pauses in favour of quiet appreciation. It was certainly difficult not to order more.
As we finished our cocktails, we opted for wine – a bottle of Ca’ da Bosio Gavi del Comune di Gavi 2025. Light and crisp, with notes of lemon and green apple and a clean mineral edge, it proved refreshing, and our lovely waiter paired it perfectly with what was to come.
The menu is divided into sections, designed to be enjoyed in progression – ‘Raw’, ‘Sea’, ‘Land’. Having moved past the ‘Spreads’, we arrived at ‘Soil’, consisting of vegetables and salads. A Greek salad arrived in a beautifully leaf-pressed glass bowl, its centrepiece a slab of barrel-aged feta cut into four neat triangles and crowned with caper leaves and oregano. Beneath, a vibrant medley of sun-ripened tomatoes, crunchy rusks, briny olives, thin shreds of green pepper and cucumber. A tomato salad followed – simple in concept but striking on the plate – a spectrum of tomatoes ranging from deep red to burnt orange, glistening in olive oil and lifted with a bright tomato salsa. Each dish felt like a continuation of Greek classics, carried by the warmth and vibrancy of fresh ingredients.
To follow came a parade of raw fish, each as visually striking as it was delicate on the palate. The seabass carpaccio arrived first, its rolled slices glistening beneath lemon oil and finished with a dusting of bottarga, lending a gentle saline depth with a citrus edge. Next, slices of yellowtail, silky and pale, were drenched in dashi, yuzu and olive oil, topped with a thin slice of jalapeño – each bite a balance of umami, citrus and spice. Finally, the bluefin tuna, finely chopped and served on a silver plate, glossed with lemon dressing and scattered with capers for a briny lift, was accompanied by crisp sesame crackers. Together, the trio felt fresh, clean and almost weightless – the fish dissolving on the palate while citrus notes threaded through each dish, sharpening every flavour with precision.
As we moved on, we arrived at the dish that has quietly built a loyal following and now dominates the conversation around Zēphyr: the crispy potato terrine. A perfectly formed square of thinly layered potato, pressed and fried until golden, each edge shatteringly crisp. Topped with a smoky metsovone custard and finished with delicate shavings of truffle, it delivered an earthy richness. Indulgent, yes, but also precise and utterly moreish.
When it came to mains, decision-making felt almost impossible – the kind of menu that tempts you to over-order without hesitation. At Zēphyr, dishes are designed for sharing and arrive as they’re ready, keeping the table in a pleasant state of anticipation.
We began with the seabass, grilled and then filleted by our waiter, finished with glossy amarillo butter and a scattering of fresh parsley. The black cod offered something richer, resting on an emerald bed of spanakorizo – a traditional Greek rice dish folded with spinach and yoghurt. Next came the rib-eye, sliced into generous strips and blushing medium-rare. A small bowl of porcini mushroom jus accompanied it, poured over for an added depth of earthy richness. The beef itself, with its caramelised crust and subtle smokiness, was deeply satisfying – and certainly hard to share. Lastly, the soutzoukakia – spiced minced beef meatballs – brought comfort to the table, served over cumin-spiced yoghurt with a spoon of lightly spiced tomato harissa that delivered just the right amount of warmth without overwhelming the dish.
To finish, we shared the loukoumades: small, golden doughnuts served with a Greek coffee dulce de leche. Sweet, with a slight bitterness from the coffee, it was a simple dessert – just enough to round off the meal without feeling too heavy.
Zēphyr – a slice of Grecian culture brought to London’s borough of Notting Hill – makes for the perfect lunch or evening escape from the city’s bustle. A step closer to the Mediterranean, it offers an easy dining experience with an elevated, effortlessly cool atmosphere. Zēphyr – we’ll be back to try more of the menu, and certainly to order more crispy potato terrines.
Book your table here. Photography courtesy of Zēphyr.
