March 9, 2025 |
Noir Kei Ninomiya’s AW25 show was a masterclass in sculptural experimentation, proving once again that the Comme des Garçons protégé has no interest in playing it safe. A departure from the label’s signature stark black, this season saw bursts of unexpected colour – deep crimsons, electric blues and icy silvers – woven into its intricate, three-dimensional constructions.
Textures were at the forefront, with cascading tulle, tangled metalwork and architectural floral structures transforming models into walking art pieces. Feathers erupted from shoulders, while oversized, bulbous silhouettes gave an almost otherworldly effect. There was movement, drama and a touch of chaos – controlled, of course, with the precision that has become synonymous with Ninomiya’s name.
Footwear played a crucial role, with experimental platform boots and a continuation of last season’s collaboration with Reebok, reinterpreting the Instapump Fury with exaggerated proportions. Accessories followed suit, from spiked headpieces to veiled masks, reinforcing the collection’s darkly romantic edge.
In a world obsessed with minimalism, Ninomiya continued to challenge convention, proving that excess – when done right – is nothing short of sublime.
Photography by Christina Fragkou.
