February 26, 2026 |
Someone’s always watching… and for No. 21’s AW26 collection, that’s kind of the point. Entitled Natural Femininity, voyeuristic intimacy – the observation of an unsuspecting person – is a leading theme within a collection that explores the delicious tension between being seen and being known. Creative director Alessandro Dell’Acqua’s artistic references sought refuge within the latter. This included photographer Sophie Calle’s 1981 images of guest’s personal belongings taken while cleaning a Venetian hotel and director Federico Fellini’s film, 8 1/2, in which the ending depicts a parade of all characters joining hands in union.
Dell’Acqua’s message? Femininity, but make it real. He wanted to propose an everyday expression of womanhood; one that is rooted in shared lived experiences. Loosely based on dress aesthetics of the 1940s, the show begins with a series of black, intentionally minimal looks. Progressing in shape and volume – think wide sack-dresses with textured white collars and encapsulating kimono-style overcoats with loose form – the garments speak Dell’Acqua’s language of minimalism whilst cocooning the body in layers which demand space. The chosen bag of the season, the medium-sized Cabiria, adorns hands with a look-finishing touch.
But the devil really lives in the details; bedazzled collars bleed into structured shoulders, skin is bared with cropped transparent shirts and bodysuits, skirts and mini dresses are completed with utilitarian bombers and slouchy knit gloves. Unbuttoned blazers with low rise suit trousers were paired with slightly wind-swept yet perfectly positioned hairstyles. Metallic features are flirted with through skirts and jackets until being loudly announced in the finale of the show via a molten gold, gathered gown – large bow tied at the side. Composed is out. Slightly unhinged (but still undeniably chic) is in.
Photography Courtesy of No.21.
