MR BY ROLAND MOURET: PARIS MENSWEAR A/W 11

 

In an evening of firsts, Roland Mouret presented his first men’ s wear presentation. The boys appeared behind a two way mirrored double vetrine (conceived by the wonderous Thierry Drefus and Roland.) Each boy appeared and stood in a pools of light rotating to show the clothes from every angle. The reason behind this, Roland explained, was due to the idea that traditional catwalk only generally allows the majority to view the clothes solely from the side so one never ever gets a true 3d representation of the whole silhouette. He believed this way would allow for more focus on the fit, from back, front and side giving a much truer representation.Then each boy moved from one to the next as he completed his sequence.

Now as for the collection, the  main inspiration was David Bowie in ‘Merry Christmas Mr Lawrence.’  and showed wonderful tailored pieces in grey and beige highlighted by classic lace ups in cherry red and skinny ties of the same vivd red. These elements acted as a valuable punctuation to the palette. In the main the textures where reassuringly traditional gorgeous tweeds, dry wools, woven khaki coats, chinos gave a sense of nostalgia and modernity that felt effortless and believable. The boy too, under David Bradshaws the styling director of the show, projected real man, not skinny waif. There was an honesty to the pieces that represented in the main the idea of the building of a mans wardrobe not reliant on trends but things to build on, year on year season on season. The whole thing came together with honesty conviction and believability just what every boy wants. 


By Sophia Neophitou Apostolou

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