A mountain of suitcases populated the showspace for what was Adrian Appiolaza’s Moschino menswear debut. Back in February, he made his entrance into the brand by re-energising hero pieces from Moschino’s archive for a modern customer. Here he began to fuse Franco Moschino’s tongue-in-cheek design handwriting with that of his own, propelling codes from the archive into new, inviting silhouettes.
Appiolaza treated the collection like a character study, moving from the chaos of dressing for the hustle and bustle of the inner city through to an idyllic Italian countryside bliss. Formalwear was shot through a glitch in the matrix. Like a pocket-heavy banker suit littered with office stationary, or a poloshirt that mutated and grew a series of collars across the torso. Elsewhere, striped overcoats appeared chewed up and spat out by a shredder, while fried eggs migrated lemon yellow twinsets.
Backstage, he said the collection marked a journey to one’s own chosen paradise. Be it the dancefloor (Moschino’s rave-ready smiley face appeared on jumpers and jewellery). The countryside (khaki overalls walked alongside crochet shirt dresses and skirts that resembled straw). Or even the footy (it appeared Appiolaza might’ve had Euros fever, seen via football-laden blazers and skirts in the hues of the Italian flag). Appiolaza’s marked his arrival at the brand. The intrigue to see what he does next is rife.
Photography courtesy of Moschino
