A label lauded for its ability to collide tongue-in-cheek nods to excessive consumerism with pop cultural camp, Moschino is entering into a new artistic era. Following Jeremy Scott’s departure from the Italian luxury giant, its Resort 2024 collection for men feels unexpectedly elegant. Without sacrificing the campy humour so deeply embedded in the DNA of the brand, a forward-facing focus on atmospheric refinement, softness and seriousness emerges, underscored by punchy summer colours and varsity variations.
Adhering to an infectious schoolboy spirit, ‘90s-style tight graphic tees are worn over button-downs and under blazers, bringing a slick, somewhat juvenile shape to broad and baggy looks – call it rebellious academia. Like an old-school picture day shoot to boot, the campaign is a grainy, staged tableaux swimming in retro aesthetics, with a blend of sporty and sartorial clobber donning on a tag-team of Moschino muses – anything but awkward adolescents. Slung across their sculpted bodies, a slew of enlarged bum-bags dangle, plastered with understated Moschino logos and silver zips. Some of the looks are even accessorised with Walkman headphones, truly taking it back to the age of mixtapes, corded home telephones, floppy discs and dial-up internet.
Elsewhere, a vibrant, vintage floral print is repurposed and cut into a sash-tied top or banded corset. The masculine corset is then worn layered over the exterior of finely tailored shirts and razor-sharp blazers. Beautifully abstracting throughout the offering, the blooms and blossoms are similarly raised to create bijoux bits: think chrysanthemum-like chokers, mini-ties and chain belts.
Marrying archive-sourced styling influences with reimagined graphics, uniform collars are doubled, off and away from shirting, to create necklaces, as flowy trousers drape over loafers and thin-soled leather boots. A newly pared back Moschino moto jacket is complemented by a botanical tie that’s knotted short on top and long in the tail and carries throughout the elevated-retro range. Splashes of broad sailor stripes dance around aquamarine cords, and billowing wide-leg trousers shimmy.
Between washed-denim wide-leg cargo shorts, panelled oversized jean jackets and subtle flickers of leather harness-work, the Moschino man is bringing it back to the naughty Nineties.
Photography by Mark Kean.
