Ludovico Bruno’s Mordecai landed Milan with a clear message: this was menswear designed to move, adapt and be passed on. AW26, titled The Last Nomad, opened on a runway layered with red Berber carpets, framing a collection built around outerwear and the idea of a truly warm, flexible winter wardrobe.
Jackets and coats led the show. Down puffers, parkas and padded layers were cut to adapt to whatever was worn underneath, whether light shirting or heavier knits. Many pieces were modular, designed to be assembled, detached and reworked across seasons. An ivory padded jacket worn over layered whites and styled with a cobalt blue headscarf captured the collection’s balance of protection and ease.
As models moved through the space, garments were removed and passed on, reinforcing the practicality of the clothes rather than turning the moment into theatre. Denim arrived treated and coated, blurring the line between outerwear and everyday staples. Waxed cottons, washed wools and basket-finished textures gave the collection a worn-in, functional feel.
Military references softened into workwear through pashmina collars, kimono-style closures and nylon gussets. Trompe l’oeil fur-print jackets added depth while keeping the focus on warmth and construction. The palette – off-whites, sand, mud green, black and flashes of Klein blue – kept everything grounded.
The Last Nomad was confident and clear: outerwear as the foundation of a modern winter wardrobe, designed to adapt, layer and last.
Photography courtesy of Mordecai.
