February 22, 2019 |
It’s Wednesday evening in Milan and queue of fashion crowds is going round and round the corners. We’re at the AW19 Moncler Genius presentation – our stop shop to the awe-inducing, free-thinking experimentations very much necessary in design today.
This season’s refreshed line-up included our faves, Richard Quinn and Alyx including the previous empyreal giants on the roster. Moncler gathered 8 geniuses at Via Guglielmo Marconi, where the contemporary interiors decadently contrasted the classic Italian architecture surrounding, illuminated as nightfall struck a perfect backdrop to the installations signature to each house represented.
Each presentation was numbered, symbolic of the different themes explored. The first was a dynamic display of a modern reimagination of Victorian fancy. Structural, hooded puffer gowns, pleated and contorted a redefinition of womanhood, and who better to offer this selection than, Pierpaolo Piccioli of Valentino as he communicates the idea of pure essence.
Moncler 1952 allowed us to delve into the innovation of their trademark classics. The details and technology are sustained and remain otherworldly. Whereas Moncler Grenoble’s mode of communication of playful flair. Constructing, distressing, deconstruction and reworking of the prototypal pieces we’ve come to dow and love.
Simone Rocha was the fourth to emerge. Pragmatic femininity was the aim of her game. Conceptually reminiscent of modern deity. Simone Rocha’s woman is one of great strength, and independent spirit, augmenting archaic notions of the female form. The mind of Craig Green and his functional abstractions. His iconic reinterpretations of the nautical collection were presented in a vacuum like space. strobe lights accentuated the details as the garments came to life and propelling from the ceiling.
Hiroshi Fujiwara; an intergalactic, magenta-died vessel. Khaki-clad and graphic printed, with fingers firmly on the pulse of cultural phenoms this house reminded us of the practicality of both brands. Palm Angels; a candy-coated confection of sweet treats. With a stick up by way of paint splatter galore. The metallic boiler suits had us salivating, yet conflicted. The colour wheel of a summer’s eve but the functionality of a British Blitz.
The newest additions to the lineup, 1017 Alyx 9SM and Richard Quinn certainly didn’t disappoint. In fact, they exceeded predictions. Matthew Williams monochromatic response with leather accented jackets were illuminated by playful pops colour. Layered jackets and bucket hats were upscaled by mixed media statement pieces. And then there was the British king of prints that does a mean headpiece. Richard Quinn’s floral display was a production fit for a girl in search of the Grand Wizard Oz. Technicoloured dream coats in varied cuts and shapes.
The Genius programme is emblematic of the excitement that fashion should intend to be. We eagerly await for the extravaganza of this season to hit the shops, but in the meantime, let’s all wallow in this year’s genius offering.
