July 5, 2014 |
Resort, really, is about the jet-set. A jet-set I like to anchor firmly in the late sixties and early seventies, when the Duchess of Windsor was careening about in brocade hot pants and psychedelic chiffons and Princess Margaret pitched up in giant turbans and gem-encrusted kaftans for a weekend jaunt in Mustique.
That was pretty much the frame of reference for Miuccia Prada’s Miu Miu 2015 pre-spring show – yes, show. She stole a march on couture, presenting her pre-collection on live models for the first time ever. What’s more, she made quite the song and dance of it, shag-carpeting the Palais d’Iéna like a seventies rec room in pastel blue and plonking down a faceted selection of mid-century modern furniture and mirrored cubes as seating. One British journalist roundly declared that said reflective facets would broadcast her nether regions to the thronged crowds, but she needn’t have worried. Our attention was riveted on the new Miu.
The look generally was Bewitched meets Brady Bunch, with a hefty dose of Abigail’s Party – mired in the era that spawned cruise in the first place. Hence plenty of swirly-whirly multicoloured print, crocheted tank tops, billowing chiffon scarves and gem encrustations. It wasn’t fussy, challenging or intellectually over-exerting. Which is what cruise – or resort, or pre-spring, or whatever you want to dub it – should be. Fun clothes to have a good time in. They looked great, looked like they felt great, and will sell. Mrs Prada nailed it. Then she served us dinner after. Always nice.
By Alexander Fury
The Independent
