October 11, 2024 |
Without clothing, humans have no protection. Without humans, clothing is rendered purposeless. For Demon Zhang’s genderless label Mithridate, this push and pull relationship moulds the label’s mantra. With a “more is more” attitude weaving its way through the brand, the designer made their runway debut at London Fashion Week in September which played out as an intimate ode to their Chinese heritage.
For the brand’s SS25 show, called Spring Fusion, Zhang took to London’s Somerset House to unveil 66 looks that boasted a rainbow of vivid colours. Exploring the fragility of flowers through dress, pom-poms decorated earrings, platform sandals, hats and blazers, as well as boxy fringe dresses that reimagined Chinese formalwear. Images of nature also infiltrated Zhang’s garments, inspired by the effervescent flora and fauna of their native Yunnan. “Colour is an inherently emotional medium capable of influencing our moods,” says Zhang, adding, “the vibrant hues I’ve drawn from my sunny hometown are meant to inspire new ways to style everyday outfits.”
“Growing up I always believed that clothing should be floral,” says Zhang. The Central Saint Martins’ alumni grew up in Yunnan, a Chinese province known as ‘the kingdom of flowers’ that’s regarded as the second largest flower trading city in the world. Moving to London to study Fashion Print at the esteemed university, Zhang’s own multicultural experience allows for their work to blend both Eastern and Western influences, forming a design philosophy that’s “deeply rooted in the culture and aesthetics” that surrounded the designer while growing up.
After completing their studies, Zhang went onto assist both Lee Alexander McQueen and John Galliano, gaining an extensive knowledge of fabric processing. Forming their own fabrication technique for SS25, Zhang “combined traditional tie-dye with modern ice-dyeing.” What this means is that the dye gradually transfers onto the fabric as the ice melts, “creating random patterns and unexpected colour distributions, a visual story of time and temperature”, says Zhang. Other printing techniques were showcased in devoré fabrics, weaving, jacquard, digital printing and mechanical beading. “I layered colours upon colours and prints upon prints,” Zhang explains. “It’s a common practice in the everyday attire of ethnic minorities.”
Zhang describes Mithridate’s DNA as ‘Luxury Pragmatism’, informed by people they were surrounded by growing up. “Many of the ethnic minorities in Yunnan are known for their hard work and close connection to nature, which is reflected in the adaptability of their clothing.” Because of this, Zhang lets the practicality of day-to-day life guide their designs. With Mithridate, the designer hopes to offer audiences “a completely new visual and dressing experience”.
“Everything I have experienced since childhood, from sounds, colours, textures and scents to daily habits, I aim to share through my design language and to tell this story to everyone.”
Photography courtesy of Mithridate.
