Martine Rose grew up on the cusp of rave. As a child, one of the designer’s fondest tales was going to watch her cousins dance across Clapham Common in the early hours of a Sunday morning, desperate for the night not to end. Dancefloor hedonism is never too far from the drawing board when it comes to inspiration for Rose. Her AW14 came plastered in ’90s rave flyers, her shows are soundtracked by XL Recordings floorfillers and her roomy cuts and cool denim make one fine uniform for livin’ it large.
Subverting youth subculture is the pillar of her brand, but who’s to say going out raving is just for the young? A cast of older gents are the dancfloor darlings of Rose’s SS22 lookbook, captured by on-going collaborators Sharna Osborne, Rosie Marks and Camille Vivier.
Rose signatures like footy shirts, motercross trousers and slouched tracksuits come informed by gabber ravers and acid house devotees. Syd Brak’s airbrushed illustrations fashion the collection’s standout motif – a set of tangled, cherry-red telephones – which are printed across wipe-clean trousers and silk shirts – the latter cut askew, as if thrown on in a rush to get to the club before last entry. The whole thing made for a cheerful reminder of euphoric nights gone by, and as Omicron eases, hopefully ahead, too. This is going out garb that’s good for the soul.
Photography courtesy of Martine Rose. The collection will be available at online from the end of January.