May 18, 2022 |
Inclusivity and creativity are two defining forces at the heart of Marshall Columbia. The eponymous, Brooklyn-based label uses fashion as a means of metamorphosing childhood play and a youthful sense of wonder into confident, colourful clothing – an approach undeniably rendered in his latest collection.
The growth of Marshall Columbia’s business in the last two years has been remarkable. After all, it was only in 2020 that the designer launched the label. These days you’ll find him creating itty-bitty knits, spicy cutout tops and embellished bras for superstars like Dua Lipa, Kim Petras, Kali Uchis, Megan Thee Stallion, Bella Hadid, Miley Cyrus and the list goes on.
For his latest offering, Collection 3, Columbia’s nostalgic exploration comes alive with organic shapes, distinct materials and vivacious colours, at once familiar and refreshing. The buzzy brand has abandoned its previous accessories-only comportment and instead unveiled a myriad of statement dresses, blazers, bikinis, beaded bodysuits and of course, embellished bags for an uplifting experience you’ll surely want to co-opt. Think art-meets-acid trip, with a pinch of Y2K nostalgia – now that’s Marshall Columbia.
Looking to fleeting memories of childhood crafts and youthful pursuits, with a quirky, off-kilter sensibility, his academic background in costume design is apparent in everything he does. Even the label’s cartoon smiley flower logo – which comes plastered across hoodies, tees and embroidered on the crotch of slouchy jeans – verges on tongue-in-cheek. But it would be hyperbole to call it kitsch, because what Columbia creates is anything but. In reality, his work is simultaneously novel and nostalgic, bringing the designer’s imaginative innovations and techniques to the fore.
Columbia grew up exploring the great Colorado wilderness, hiking and skiing, so it comes as no surprise that the lucid colours of outdoor sports gear are translated effortlessly from hazy adolescent memories into the vibrant clothes he’s creating today. He even describes the eye-catching hues he uses as an integral part of his design language. “I’m not trying to be a maximalist – I just love loud colours,” he says as we chat over Zoom. Then, Columbia confesses to me that he’s colourblind: “I have a hard time distinguishing between muted hues, but I can see loud colours and I know exactly what they are.” No doubt, his optical affliction has been a catalyst in informing his palette.
Columbia also spent much of his youth engaging in tomfoolery at the skatepark beside his parent’s home: “Even when we weren’t at the skatepark we were playing Tony Hawk’s Underground or staying up all night watching skate videos on YouTube.” Unfortunately, as Columbia came into his own and realised his sexuality as a gay man, the skateboarding environment became toxic and he felt forced to quit.
With Collection 3, Columbia works to navigate the heteronormative atmosphere of his adolescence: “I wanted to create the environment that I wish I had, had growing up.” Which begs the question: “What would it look like if the skatepark was an inclusive place?” But as Columbia clearly states, the edit isn’t a canonical representation of skate culture right now. Rather, its an ephemeral reflection of his own experiences from a moment in time where being queer adversely impacted his being a part of the skate community. He says, “A lot of safe spaces are popping up now and in general skate culture has become very welcoming to people like me.”
As teenage angst eventually turned to maturity, Columbia packed his bags and headed across the country to set up roots in the Big Apple. In NYC, he created a sanctuary for those who use clothing as an extension of themselves and the fantastic freedom they hold oh so dear, situating his label as absolutely inclusive and accessible.
For Collection 3, Columbia has introduced an eccentric menswear capsule with SSENSE that’s chock-full of meticulous hand-beaded embellishments, thoughtfully placed cutouts and high-octane silhouettes. While at first unsure how to determine his menswear customer, Columbia eventually realised that it was himself. “I really wanted to focus on more queer consumers and what my friends and I like to wear,” he says. “So, the cuts are very, for lack of a better term, gay.”
While men’s vests come cropped and belly-baring, cutouts are integrated in from past collections and lime green, once again ,comes to the fore. For that added bit of va-va-variety, many of the tops are two pieces – sleeves and a separate bodice – so you can mix and match as you please.
Its also the first time that Columbia’s offering has incorporated denim, coming in a genderless array of washes from baby pink and black to indigo and orange. Plus, a swimming brief is designed with a cheeky cutout on one hip so it peeks out from under your waistband like a Paris Hilton-worthy g-string.
Marshall Columbia’s trademark Moonflower Bag also gets an update: it’s now available in a jumbo size. Elsewhere, four independent accessory collaborations boast a unique Columbia touch. While he’s most excited about the footwear link up with Yume Yume who he worked with to redesign the brand’s signature Suki Sandal, Columbia also joined forces with Shradha Kochhar for the knitwear, TDKent worked on the eyewear and Alan Crocetti crafted the jewellery. The Marshall Columbia empire continues to grow.
Photography by Oscar Ouk. Shop Marshall Columbia Collection 3 here.
