September 30, 2022 |
Ludovic de Saint Sernin christened his label’s fifth-anniversary show with a near-direct clone of what was once Robert Mapplethorpe’s daily uniform: a cotton shirt left unbuttoned, paired with tight leather trousers. In his show notes, the designer described the provocative photographer as one of the “most enduring conceptual touchpoints” in guiding his sexually-charged design lexicon, which remains free of inhibition and devoid of strict, binary categorisation.
A summer spent immersed in Berlin’s cavernous clubs guided de Saint Sernin’s hand this season. His signature eyelet briefs became transformed into the world’s smallest miniskirt – à la Jodie Marsh – thanks to an added leather frill-hemmed belt. Jeans were painstakingly laddered to cheekily expose the bum and sheer tank tops came stamped in the brand’s LdSS diamante logo. Most impressive were the asymmetrically-draped miniskirts and bra stops fashioned from high-grade crystal mesh, paired with an equally shiny silver baguette bag de Saint Sernin calls the Cleavage – the brand’s first big push into accessories – made from croc-embossed leather.
Photography courtesy of Ludovic de Saint Sernin.
