Nigo’s arrival at Kenzo is a big deal. A huge deal, in fact. The brand’s new creative director is the first Japanese designer to take the helm of the house since its founder Kenzo Takada, who launched his eponymous label in 1970 – the year Nigo was born – and tragically passed away in 2020 after a battle with Covid-19. There are plenty of parallels that join the two. They both studied at the same art college in Tokyo, and have been instrumental forces in melding Japanese design sensibilities with Western fashion ideals.
As founder of A Bathing Ape, and co-founder of Human Made and Billionaire Boys Club – the latter created alongside Pharrell Williams, who calls Nigo “the General” – the 51-year-old is one of the most revered names in streetwear; god-like to its most loyal disciples. And so, despite the early morning showtime, Williams, Pusha T, Tyler, the Creator and a denim-clad Ye and Julia Fox all cuddled up on the front row, bopping their heads to a soundtrack the first three of that list helped create. (The designer has an album coming out on Universal Music called I Know Nigo, with contributions from A$AP Rocky, Kid Cudi and more.)
The collection sees Nigo approach the heritage Kenzo Takada through his own handwriting, bringing with him his teenage fascination with ’80s Americana and British mods. Models strolled through Galerie Vivienne – the first place Kenzo set up shop – donning Prince of Wales checkered suiting, Harris tweed coats, Britpop parkas and baker boy hats that came back-to-front and fashioned from Japanese denim. Nigo revitalised a signature Poppy Print from Kenzo’s archive, layered across everything from workshirts through to dresses, whilst also bringing Kenzo’s tiger crest back into the fold (particularly great when plastered on the back of biker jackets).
Going forward, the brand will release its collections in a series of limited-edition drops – which might be commonplace in the world of luxury today, but was pioneered by Nigo. Many of the pieces here will make noise, like varsity jackets and cartoonish jumpers. A promising debut from a house that has struggled in recent years, Nigo’s vision for the brand is driven not by hype, but good quality product. Kenzo’s safe in his hands.
Photography courtesy of Kenzo.
