September 18, 2022 |
An abandoned and dilapidated hotel was the atmospheric setting for Dilara, whose gothic, Victoriana is gathering power. The designer stands proudly outside the mainstream but her work has seeped into popular culture by way of music videos and Bella Hadid selfies.
This collection was autobiographical, inspired by the Turkish-born designer’s own story of growing up and breaking free of the shackles of female expectation placed on her by family, religion and society. Her personal reckoning came after 18 months spent at home in Turkey during lockdown, which prompted the deep questions of personal identity and agency which fed into this collection. “To me this comes from that feeling of being trapped,” she said. “I want to take my burdens off: I feel strangled with modesty, I hate modesty, I want to destroy it.”
That she did with teeny-tiny pelmet skirts and corsets made from upcycled Victorian brocade, or fragile sheer layers. Petticoats and girdle-skirts added to the distressed-undressed look. Alongside highly crafted feather jackets and panniered mini-dresses made from coiled ropes of hair, there was low slung, hole-punched baggy denim to bring a contemporary edge. The models walked in silence, the only soundtrack the jangle of their jewellery and the rhythmic clip-clop of their heels on the floorboards. It was a ‘thongs-out’ affair where day and night, lingerie and streetwear came together in a swirl of sexuality. Di-lovely.
Photography courtesy of Dilara Findikolu.
