March 14, 2022 |
Riccardo Tisci is getting to the heart of Burberry. The designer spoke of his initial nervousness of addressing its Britishness – and in the feverish, pre-Brexit atmosphere of his early tenure, who can blame him? But for AW22, he felt ready. The brand’s first live show for two years was an epic that put traditional British dressing – plaid, pleats, and the kind of quilted dog walking jackets favoured by The Queen – through a high fashion blender. Out came origami plaid pleats fashioned into striking ensembles and sweeping ballgown trench coats. Chunky, candy coloured twinsets were decorated with crystal versions of Burberry’s galloping Knight logo. There were hunting pink blazers, patchwork rugby shirts and eiderdown gowns – each piece born of British tradition but cut with Tisci’s high-fashion virtuoso sensibility.
“The collection embodies an intangible essence that is Britishness, a unique fusion of honouring the beauty of the past, whilst also remaining focussed on the future with thankfulness, hope and love,” said Tisci in a statement. His staging also defied convention. There were no seats, instead the audience clustered around circular tables set with the crystal glasses and cutlery as if for a formal dinner. A choir accompanied by the London Contemporary Orchestra performed Phillip Glass, Michael Nyman and Max Richter compositions as models Irina Shayk, Mariacarla Boscono, Gigi and Bella Hadid, descended from a gallery and walked over the dinner tables. It was thrilling and strange and stunning – pure fashion theatre.
Photography by Jason Lloyd-Evans.
