February 22, 2022 |
The London-based label Av Vattev, backed by Central Saint Martins grad Antonio Vattev, offered a space-age assemblage for the AW22 season. Called Soul-Control V.2, the fantastical collection emerged as its second rendition of turbocharged garms and a spiritual successor to its summer edit.
For AW22, futuristic threads are equally nostalgic, taking mid-century silhouettes into the modern-day and beyond. From beginning to end, the spirit of the 1970s glitz and glam mingled with the subtle simplicity of breezy 1990s swagger; it channelled the moves like Mick Jagger, but made casual for the streets of the future.
Incorporating womenswear for the second time, the Bulgarian designer opted to include leather skirts, form-fitted asymmetrical tops and a jet black cut-out gown. What’s more, the twisted chevron fronted jackets from the SS22 collection returned for fall as hefty quilted bombers. Similarly, the Rave Frayed jeans explored black and charcoal hues this time around, and laser-cut overlays inspired by the works of David Hockney emerged across wool tailoring and low-rise looks. Even the Jukebox coat was reworked and abbreviated into a black-leather blazer this season, though its distinctive diamond strap closure endures.
Standout looks included a sanguine poufy hood with a coordinating balaclava, ski goggles and a contrast sportswear jacket, an ombre blue criss-cross headpiece fashioned from strands of hair, and a rose-pink, cable-knit jumper, deconstructed and webbed, layered over a pair of scarlet calf-skin, wide-leg trousers with in-built, one-shoulder suspenders.
As the accompanying fashion film transpired, a high-intensity score, upbeat and distorted, filled the room. The synchronous visuals were warped and glitchy, playing with perspectives as the pierced models strode in slow motion across a wired, sky-blue set, clad in Av Vattev’s sleek, interstellar clobber.
Photography courtesy of Av Vattev.
