April 15, 2025 |
Fashion’s most exciting new disruptors are listening to everything from hyperpop and esoteric ballads to Icelandic post-rock and contemporary Kurdish anthems. We caught up with 10 of Europe’s rising stars to ask them about their style, inspirations and the songs they can’t stop listening to.
Dominik Bittmann
Elevating basics and bringing underwear outwards, Dominik Bittmann is growing his own Paris brand while working as part of the team at Ludovic de Saint Sernin. His work is known for its reinterpretation of classic fashion conventions.
How would you describe your aesthetic?
A romantic and reimagined interpretation of modern-day dressing culture.
When designing, what inspires you the most?
Small details and finishings. Especially underwear, as it captures beauty and complexity.
What music has inspired your clothes?
Lately, it’s LP1 by FKA twigs.
What music do you like to listen to when you create?
Usually it’s Lana Del Rey, Crystal Castles, Lorde or Lykke Li.
Which musician would you like to see wearing your clothes?
How would you define the relationship between fashion and music?
Symbiotic and dependent on each other.
If you could only listen to one song for the rest of your life, what would it be?
Chemtrails Over the Country Club by Lana Del Rey.
Dominik Bittmann outside his Paris studio; portrait by JOSE CUEVAS
Gerrit Jacob
A rising talent of the Berlin fashion scene, Gerrit Jacob’s signature airbrush style and custom Hermès bags have been spotted on the likes of Rosalía, A$AP Rocky, Lil Nas X and Burna Boy. His unique approach sees him successfully fuse the visual language of contemporary streetwear with coveted classics.
How would you describe your aesthetic?
I do whatever I feel drawn to at that very moment. I am not a huge fan of describing my own stuff to other people, it is much more interesting for everyone to decide that for themselves.
What aspects of music have inspired your clothes?
The cover artwork for Von by Sigur Rós.
What music do you like to listen to when you create?
Summer Walker, Sophie, The Prodigy, Blood Orange, 070 Shake.
Which musicians would you like to see wearing your clothes?
Evian Christ, Sophie (RIP) or Kelela.
How would you define the relationship between fashion and music?
Well, in terms of creative disciplines, those two are the most connected, even more than art and fashion. Music and fashion are both about performance and capturing a moment. They both move quickly – that makes them exciting.
What music most accurately embodies the vibe of your creations?
Genesis by Grimes, according to ChatGPT.
If you had a runway show tomorrow, what would the soundtrack be?
This changes every day, but I would get a friend to remix songs that I listened to while making the clothes.
If you could only listen to one song for the rest of your life, what would it be?
I’m God by Clams Casino [and Imogen Heap].
Gerrit Jacob in his Berlin studio; portrait by SPYROS RENNT
Leo Prevaes
A graduate of the prestigious Berlin art school Weißensee Kunsthochschule, Leo Prevaes is a womenswear designer currently working at Celine, having previously honed his talents as part of the womenswear team at Chloé in Paris.
How would you describe your aesthetic?
Sensible memories and chewing gum.
When designing, what inspires you the most?
Family heirlooms.
What music has inspired your clothes?
I am inspired by how artists work. I love it when genres clash – that’s where depth lies.
What music do you like to listen to when you create?
I recently rediscovered the shuffle tool on Spotify. It’s traumatising and rewarding.
Which musician would you like to see wearing your clothes?
How would you define the relationship between fashion and music?
Neither would exist without the other.
What music embodies the vibe of your creations?
For my latest collection, it’s the music from The Sims 2.
If you had a runway show tomorrow, what would the soundtrack be?
Fashion by David Bowie.
What are your plans for the next year with regard to your work?
Different experiences and collaborations with people in the industry.
If you could only listen to one song for the rest of your life, what would it be?
It would be Swan Song by Grimes.
Leo Prevaes in his Berlin studio; portrait by BASTIAN THIERY
Kasia Kucharska
From the red carpet of the British Fashion Awards to the street-style looks of Paris Fashion Week, FCG [Fashion Council Germany]/Vogue Fashion Fund winner Kasia Kucharska had an ascendant 2024. Having graduated from Universität der Künste Berlin with an MA in fashion and product design in 2019, she began sharing her latex garments on Instagram, where she has amassed a devoted following.
How would you describe your aesthetic?
All of our garments are strictly made out of latex. It’s a postmodern take on lace, as I wanted to bring that back into the modern wardrobe.
When designing, what inspires you the most?
Being out and about inspires me. With headspace, the inspiration flows.
What music has inspired your clothes?
I love Whitney Houston, Madonna and Rihanna. It’s about them, not the genre. I would also love it if Madonna and RiRi wanted to wear my clothes.
How would you define the relationship between fashion and music?
They go hand in hand. Performers need both. I see myself as a provider in that construct.
What music embodies the vibe of your creations?
A mix of different sounds. Something classical and something medieval mixed with something very new.
What are your plans for the next year with regard to your work?
I want to continue working on different things and start other projects that aren’t necessarily just fashion.
If you could only listen to one song for the rest of your life, what would it be?
Diamonds by Rihanna.
Kasia Kucharska in her Berlin studio; portrait by LUKAS WENNINGE
Lou de Bètoly
Turning bodily aesthetics inside out and upside down with fresh takes on lingerie and upcycled materials, Lou de Bètoly landed in Berlin in 2018 and has been fusing her feminine aesthetics with the subculture styles of the city ever since.
How would you describe your aesthetic?
A lot of details. Intricate. Feminine.
When designing, what inspires you the most?
Textiles. It’s the idea of creating fabrics, interlacing different techniques, so at the end it blends into one.
What music has inspired your clothes?
I often listen to the radio or the Discover Weekly playlist on Spotify. The only thing I don’t get fed up with is classical music.
What music do you like to listen to when you create?
A lot of classical music and French music. French pop.
Which musician would you like to see wearing your clothes?
I have to say, it’s more like the opposite. I love being surprised by who wants to wear my clothes.
How would you define the relationship between music and fashion?
Music can put you in a certain mood, which goes hand-in-hand with fashion. Together, they can create a movie-like setting.
What music embodies the vibe of your creations?
A mix of classical and electronic music.
Lou de Bètoly in her Berlin studio; portrait by SPYROS RENNT
Mona Gutheil
Known for celebrity dressing, Mona Gutheil and their partner Maximilian Benz met five years ago in Amsterdam and have worked collaboratively as Monamobile ever since. Bringing gadgetry to clothing, their pieces have been spotted on the likes of Kesha and HorsegiirL.
How would you describe your aesthetic?
We consciously play with the manipulation of attention. We use our creations as a means of confrontational social criticism. Our starting point is always a mobile object and then we go from there.
When designing, what inspires you the most?
Gadgets!
What music do you like to listen to when you create?
We don’t listen to music while creating, to get into a workflow. Outside, however, our lives are full of music!
How would you define the relationship between fashion and music?
Symbiotic. Music is an expression of identity, and fashion is an extension of that.
What are your plans for the next year with regard to your work?
We want to launch our first capsule collection and start limited-edition items.
If you could only listen to one song for the rest of your life, what would it be?
A song my flatmate made called DJDJ for Monamobile.
Monamobile AW24 in the brand’s Berlin studio; portrait by BASTIAN THIER
Tati
An MA knitwear graduate of Paris’s Institut Français de la Mode, designer Tati cut her teeth in knitwear working at Kenzo before launching her own brand in 2023. The craft runs in her blood, as her family once owned a knitwear factory in the Allgäu region of Germany, inspiring her own punk-inspired take on it.
How would you describe your aesthetic? What is your signature?
Bold, subversive and nostalgic, with elements of folklore, punk and kitsch.
When designing, what inspires you the most?
My mum, Sofia Coppola movies, [the artist] Rachel Hodgson, Louise Bourgeois, Judy Chicago, Japanese street style, Wet Leg and Baby Queen.
What music has inspired your clothes?
Wet Leg, Baby Queen, LA Witch, [music producer] Leila.
What music do you like to listen to when you create?
Jazz.
Which musician would you like to see wearing your clothes?
Baby Queen.
How would you define the relationship between fashion and music?
They can’t exist without one another. They are married until death and beyond.
What music embodies the vibe of your creations?
Sexy indie rock.
If you had a runway show tomorrow, what would be the soundtrack?
Bubble Pop Electric by Gwen Stefani and Johnny Vulture [aka André 3000].
What are your plans for the next year with regard to your work?
Showing my very first runway collection and more pop-ups in London, Seoul and New York.
If you could only listen to one song for the rest of your life, what would it be?
Bitter Sweet Symphony by The Verve.
Tati outside her Paris studio; portrait by JOSE CUEVAS
Sezgin Kivrim
Emerging designer Sezgin Kivrim and his brand’s co-founder Angelina Schwarzkopf are about to launch their new collection ‘Where Do You See the Sun?’ Combining what they’ve learned from their respective fashion design and international business educations, they are now working together to build the Berlin-based brand. Here, we talk to Kivrim.
How would you describe your aesthetic?
Hand-made, colourful and bold, our signature style combines traditional craftsmanship with a modern, playful edge.
When designing, what inspires you the most?
I am very inspired by dialogue. The way that people talk, share stories and express emotions sparks new ideas for me. Otherwise, I am inspired by personal experiences and music.
What music has inspired your clothes?
I am very into pop music, specifically female artists. I have been very inspired by Ela., Ambra and Naaz.
Sezgin Kivrim in his Berlin studio; portrait by SPYROS RENNT
Tim Stolte
With design roles at both Louis Vuitton and Lacoste already under his belt, Royal Academy of Fine Arts Antwerp graduate Tim Stolte is fast growing a name for himself with his conceptual pieces, known for their blending of nostalgia and avant-garde aesthetics.
How would you describe your aesthetic?
I grew up in a small German town, I have a lot of nostalgia for that. I also love to add a Charles James reference to my garments.
When designing, what inspires you the most?
I am very inspired by Charles James – by his patterns and ideas. I love spending time with the garment and deconstructing it. I am also currently getting into Halston.
What music has inspired your clothes?
For my BA collection, I wanted to see how music worked with the garment. I made a playlist to go along with it. It had a lot of Blood Orange and Sega Bodega in it.
What music do you like to listen to when you create?
Currently, I’ve been listening to a lot of Mitski. Otherwise, I love powerful music by artists like Cobrah or Slater. When I need to think after a full day of work, I love depressing German music like Casper, which I grew up listening to.
Which musician would you like to see wearing your clothes?
How would you define the relationship between fashion and music?
They both create an image. Fashion’s image is inherently linked to music.
What music embodies the vibe of your creations?
A lot of AG Cook’s music, I’d say.
If you had a runway show tomorrow, what music would you choose to go with it?
Sympathy is a Knife by Charli XCX.
Tim Stolte in his Paris studio; portrait by JOSE CUEVAS
Igor Dieryck
Currently working in menswear at Hermès, Igor Dieryck’s name first came to prominence when he graduated from the MA fashion course at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp in 2022. Since then, he has gone on to receive recognition at the International Festival of Fashion, Photography and Accessories – Hyères, has worked on countless collaborations and has become the true embodiment of a rising star.
How would you describe your aesthetic?
I love putting a surreal twist on usual garments by referencing everyday objects.
What music has inspired your clothes?
I listen to everything and anything, from the most commercial stuff to Belgian student hymns.
What music do you like to listen to when you create?
When I make clothes, I listen to political podcasts. It helps me concentrate!
Which musician would you like to see wearing your clothes?
Recently I got into this ’90s British group called Everything But the Girl. I heard their music in an underground bar in Tokyo. I would love to dress them.
How would you define the relationship between fashion and music?
With music, you can modify the energy that people feel during a fashion show. It can change the entire vibe, regardless of the clothes. Both of them are interconnected.
If you could only listen to one song for the rest of your life, what would it be?
Warwick Avenue by Duffy.
Igor Dieryck in his Paris studio
Taken from 10 DE Issue 01 – MUSIC, TALENT, CREATIVE – on newsstands now. Order your copy here.
