September 29, 2024 |
Sean McGirr’s McQueen era is taking shape. His debut keyed into the rebellious spirit of the brand, but for SS25 he was keen to show the rigour of the tailoring and the dark romance of the brand.
The show opened with a sharp-shouldered coat, pulled tightly around the body, as if to protect against the cold, its rolled collar inspired by Lee McQueen’s sketches in the company archive. The fluttering collar of a delicate georgette blouse peeked out from beneath and the model walked on blocky platform correspondent shoes (after last season’s Hoof Boots, McGirr has form on the viral shoe front). From there he explored the McQueen heritage of sharp cuts.
Trousers were spliced below the hip bone the with a sheer panel in tribute to McQueen’s famous Bumsters. Jackets, some with bustles, were sharp from the front but came with elaborate embroidery on the reverse. There were references to the military tailors McGirr is enamoured with as well as public school uniforms, but the strong shoulders were recognisably McQueen.
The eveningwear section was where McGirr warmed most to the ‘Banshee’ theme of the show. Inspired by the 1994 McQueen collection of that name and his own Irish folk culture, McGirr turned to tattered georgette gowns, embellished with lace and black beaded Hawthorne embroidery. These pieces best expressed the rebel romance and dark sensibility of the house. The final look made from chains of silver and crystal edged towards heroic defiance – another tantalising McQueen characteristic just waiting to be further explored. As red carpet looks they offer something different and distinctive. A quality not lost on Cardi B who rushed backstage to congratulate McGirr.
Photography courtesy of McQueen.
