The effortless chic of it! Max Mara’s Ian Griffiths visited the glory days of the riviera, in the 1920s and 1930s, when bohemian elites would gather to play. He was inspired by creative women like Zelda Fitzgerald, Isadora Duncan, Dora Maar, Bronislava Nijinska and particularly Reneé Perle. The muse and lover of Jaques Henri Lartigue epitomised the idea of riviera chic.
An easy, elongated, lean, sporty elegance was at the core of this collection. You could feel the designers confidence and expertise with cut and fabric. Perfectly cut sailor pants, lean backless tanks, cropped monochrome knits, languid fluted skirts and wide-brimmed sun hats all referenced Perle’s timeless style. As if to underline that sense of downtime, Griffiths sent out several total looks at the beginning of the show in lino gregio, an undyed linen that looks like burlap.
The famous Max Mara coats came out in summer weight, robe-cut versions which even doubled as beach coverups, over ’30s style swimwear and playsuits. Everything was easy on the eye, uncomplicated, inviting and relaxed. “It’s all about how your heart stirs, on that morning when you find yourself on a sunlit Mediterranean terrace” said Griffiths. Max Mara SS23: it’s a mood.
Photography courtesy of Max Mara.