September 14, 2019 |
Alongside the heroines of classic cinema, it was Franke Potente’s title protagonist in the 1998 German thriller Run Lola Run that informed Marta Jakubowski’s SS20 collection, with lyrics to the soundtrack quoted on the press release. “It was one of my favourite movies when I was growing up as a teenager,” she explained backstage post-show. In a colour palette of varying shades of purple, minty greens, aqua blues, neutrals and monochromes, the collection heralded new ideas of power dressing.
Taking the best from the past, there were updated 1980s-style cropped jackets with statement shoulders, slinky 1990s figure-hugging dresses and noughties low-rise waists on trousers, all styled by our very own senior fashion editor-at-large Vincent Levy. There was also something of the New Look about the collection with the liberal use of fabric and drapery, the excess flowing from the sides of trousers and classical toga-like sashes flowing through the garments and sanding around the body. The final look, a black long-sleeved dress with a high neckline had an explosion of ruffles coming from the left hip in black, lilac and golden brown, which trailed behind as a train. Set to the eclectic musical mix including Marlene Dietrich’s Sag Mir Wo Die Blumen Sind and Kanye West’s Ghost Town, Jakubowski’s empowerment was excitingly pervasive.
Photographs by Jason Lloyd-Evans.
