September 21, 2018 |
And on the last day of Milan Fashion Week, the surreal world of Francesco Risso descended onto world of fashion. With his fourth women’s show as the Creative Director of Marni, Risso achieved something many would love to. Despite having years of experience in the industry and not being an emerging designer that just graduated from CSM, he brought a severe sense of youthfulness to a luxury Italian brand, carving out a niche for himself. For all those young girls and grannies searching some eclectic luxe fashion, Marni is here to fulfil their needs. And despite not being a young girl or a granny, we’re all here for it too.
For SS19, Risso got inspired by the actual design process in the studio, as well as – wait for it – mattresses. All the guests were sat on rows of second-hand beds, each different from the other, portraying some kooky hoarder’s obsession. Even the show notes played into it – instead of listing all the exhibitions Risso and the team had visited, they were describing a recipe for a mattress. If you didn’t know, the perfect mattress requires “caramelised magnanimity”, “Ancient Greece marble, at will” and “whims, in sheets”. This oddball sense of humour corresponds through his collections too. The Marni women are perfectly put-together but spontaneous nonetheless, with chunky jewellery, a strong lip and some chic-as-hell bags and sunglasses completing their wardrobe of semi-structured skirts, off-beat corsetry and (of course) flat shoes. Despite his love of colour, it was the neutral tones like white, beige and ecru that made the base of Risso’s latest collection. Obviously, there were still some pretty prints on offer too, but the game of neutrality gave Risso a chance for a great new chapter. Grown-up, but still obsessed with looking fabulous. That’s our Marni girl.
Photographs by Jason Lloyd-Evans.
