January 24, 2015 |
“What’s that jacket Margiela?” Kanye West famously asked in his and Jay Z’s 2011 hit Ni**as in Paris. Well Kanye, in this case, yes, yes it is. That beautiful saffron coat is Margiela. And so is that also-beautiful coat that looks like it’s made from canvas, perhaps from a Peter Doig painting. The collection from the Maison Martin Margiela was colourful, but not garishly so. The use of colour was considered – blacks, greys and navy blues dominated the palette but were interspersed with strong pastels: orange-reds, yellows and light blues. It was interspersed too with variations in pattern and fabric: florals, zig-zags, painted canvas and patent leather, giving the collection a sense of sixties psychedelia. As for the silhouette, trousers were flowing and full-cut, worn high on the waist and over the shoes. Roll-necks were worn under shirts which were tucked in and buttoned down. But despite the complex layering, the melee of colours, patterns and fabrics, the collection was utterly balanced and carried an ineffable elegance.
Photographer: Jason Lloyd-Evans
By Ted Stansfield
