Magliano arrived in Paris with a whistle – a “partisan call” and an “intersex serenade” – letting presence speak louder than ceremony. For his first show in the city, Luca Magliano opened AW26 with sound – sharp, human, slightly unruly – setting the tone for a collection that felt physical, expressive and confidently itself. The message was clear from the start: this was not about Parisian polish, but about presence.
The clothes played like a greatest hits, sharpened for a bigger stage. Taxi jackets and roomy coats were wrapped in scarves and organza that drifted across the body like breath in cold air, blurring outline and purpose. Trousers twisted and pulled against the leg, cinched and interrupted at the waist by belts and loose tailoring fragments, turning functional details into visual punctuation. Everything felt worn with intent, never simply styled.
Fabric did much of the talking. Tartan – folksy and familiar – was draped generously, while tropical polyester appeared reworked with dense, shearling-like finishes that added weight and texture. Shetland, Harris tweed and mohair grounded the collection, lit up by jolts of colour in ’90s-leaning tailoring and twin sets that leaned more restless than refined. Prints of crystal glasses and jangling keys on silk shirts nodded to domestic rituals and personal space, worn lightly and without fuss.
Paris, briefly, became part of Magliano’s provincia – a city of closeness, noise and emotion. It was a city debut that felt lively, assured and distinctly unfiltered, proving that Magliano’s language travels best when it stays loud, tactile and unapologetically human.
Photography courtesy of Magliano.
