September 13, 2022 |
From grandad chic to new-age gothics, Luar’s SS23 proposal was for the subcultural kids. Think painter’s brush staches, gelled ‘70s hair and sporty, cyberpunk aviator sunnies with protracted geometric frames (for a futuristic take on the antiquated style) worn with protrusive suits – a little bit elderly, a little bit au courant – and mingling with all-black leather and lace goodies that embodied the sultry aura of Morticia Addams.
Inspired by childhood family gatherings while growing up in a Brooklyn-based Dominican family, creative director Raúl Lopez would watch his aunts and uncles arrive in casual nylon jackets, which they stripped off upon entry to his family home to reveal their Sunday best. Those terracotta, khaki, black, and blue nylon jackets informed the experimental, layered dresses with shirred elastic cuffs that Lopez made.
At the centre of the collection, an emphasis on a strong, structured shoulder, not the ‘80s padded power suit kind but a rounded anti-fashion peak instead, sent satin up to swallow necks and made a case for larger-than-life appeal. Elsewhere, skinny belts stretched across chests and bias-cut diamanté drop-waist dresses were worn with velvet evening gloves and mutton-sleeves made a name for romantic fashion in the modern age.
As the models stormed through the showspace, full-length ovular vanity mirrors were placed throughout the space, creating a mirror-maze-like sense of illusion, reflecting all angles of the garments on display and adding to the off-kilter sensibilities of the Luar brand.
Photography courtesy of Luar.
