January 4, 2013 |
This is being written on June 19. It’s 18 minutes past two, and 17 hours ago Kim tweeted that there are 10 days left until his third collection for Louis Vuitton is sent down a runway in Paris. There are also 10 days until deadline. By the time you read this that third collection will have been plastered all over newspaper front pages everywhere, and Kim will probably have been heralded the saviour of menswear, or luxury, or something like that.
As it stands, we’re still rather obsessed with collection number two, Paris Tokyo. Because, well, this is the Autumn issue, deadlines are pending and any day now, it’ll hit the shops, so we can, like, own it. Or a sock at least.
What was the starting point for the collection?
“The starting point was really the dialogue between the two great cities, Paris and Tokyo. I was hugely inspired by the legendary illustrator Antonio Lopez in the 1970s and 1980s, who was one of the first fashion people to go to Japan.”
Why Paris Tokyo? What links the two besides a long-haul flight?
“I was looking at the impact of and on French fashion of people from the outside, particularly the idea of the American in Paris. I started thinking about the cross-fertilization that occurred from the 19th century onwards – the notion of Japonisme, something that has been part of Louis Vuitton from early on in the company’s history. For instance, the monogram took its inspiration from a Japanese flower.”
How do you weave all your influences into such a tight narrative? Antonio Lopez, Giorgio Moroder, Paris, Tokyo, the heritage of Louis Vuitton – they’re all rather disparate.
“Absolutely. They are all contrasting influences, but the fusion of them together blended well. I was looking at the way the East and West converge and I guess this helped to combine all these influences. Giorgio Moroder was just really providing the soundtrack of that time.”
What is it about Antonio Lopez that appeals to you right now?
“I particularly love Antonio Lopez’s drawings of men from the 1980s, his heroic vision of men as ‘city warriors’ who could come from anywhere in the world. There was a quality and taste level to what he did that embodied luxury, and he clearly understood it.”
What’s your favourite piece?
“I couldn’t name a favourite piece, but I love all our new Nomade leather accessories, particularly the subtler way the leather appears on belts and the edging of berets.”
How important is the heritage of Louis Vuitton to what you do?
“The history of the brand is crucial to the way I design here. Obviously, luxury and travel go hand in hand with the core values of Louis Vuitton – I really think this collection demonstrates these values.”
Is it hard getting the balance between your aesthetic and that of Louis Vuitton right? How does your aesthetic translate into the world of Louis Vuitton?
“Louis Vuitton allows me to experiment with so many with fabrics and materials – the house allows me to create incredible designs that are beyond the imagination. I’m always careful to reference the Maison values when designing.”
How much time do you spend in the archives really?
“It’s all online, so it’s pretty easy to find.”
Louis Vuitton man has travelled the world. All four corners of the globe. Where’s his favourite place? The one he could go back to again and again? And why?
“The man in the A/W collection has a fluid East and West style, so obviously loves Japan and Paris. I’ve always loved Japan; I find huge inspiration there. There are so many references in this collection – the kimono shirts, the fabrics, the silks. It’s a country rich in heritage and style, which I’ve tried to fuse into the clothes.”
What does he pack in his case? What can’t he travel without?
“The art of packing is a fundamental element of Louis Vuitton. As a keen traveller, the Louis Vuitton man knows how to pack his Alzer and his Keepall. We actually have a service in our stores – if you buy a Louis Vuitton case, one of packing experts will teach you how to fit everything in perfectly, and eloquently explain the basics of packing a capsule wardrobe.”
Why does he travel? Business or pleasure? Is he an international man of mystery or an internationally renowned playboy type?
“Both – he is a man of the world.”
by Natalie Dembinska
