October 6, 2022 |
The infinitely large and infinitely small came together at Louis Vuitton in a madcap game of proportion that would have made Klaus Oldenburg proud. Nicolas Ghesquière zoomed in on the small details of clothes and bags, supersizing them and placing them on clothes, to startling effect. Giant zippers, supersized grommets, press studs, the corner of a trunk, labels (all the signifiers of the brand) adorned everything from little A-line dresses to leather jerkins and coats. One dress had macro versions of the lock and chains of a Vuitton bag in lieu of shoulder straps. Details of leather straps and buckles – blown up onto prints on perforated leather suits and little leather trimmed halter tops – looked like upside down duffel bags complete with draws strings and straps. Meanwhile, bags were treated to a reverse perspective. Luggage tags were blown up to shopper-size, and pocket chain wallets were magnified into portfolio-sized clutch bags.
The fabric research at this house is phenomenal. We saw incredible complex textures play out with rippling elasticated prints for party trousers and impressionistic embroidery on tweed tunics. At times you couldn’t quite believe your eyes, such was the imaginative twists and virtuoso craftsmanship on display.
Ghesquière had collaborated with French artist Philippe Parreno to create an outdoor installation/set within an inner courtyard of the Louvre. It looked like a fairground ride but was actually a “monster flower.” Yet another play on proportion and perspective from the outsized talent of Ghesquière, who received a well deserved standing ovation.
Photography courtesy of Louis Vuitton.
