June 7, 2023 |
A bonfire is a universal symbol of unification; a cultural memento and community gathering place; an organic force that attracts all walks of life like moths, quite literally, to a flame. It’s also a beacon of transition, an entity licking the oxygen from the air at the cusp of a new era.
Louis Vuitton channels this in its pre-spring 2024 collection, a cosy and functional wardrobe built from beautiful moults and riddled with Abloh-isms. But of course it is, since it’s the work of the in-house design studio that Virgil Abloh built – the same troupe responsible for 2022’s interim collections and the late-designer tributes following his death. Pharrell Williams may have just been handed the keys to the maison, but until his debut outing takes shape on June 20 and a new dawn is ushered in, this collection serves as a useful reminder of the signatures banked on by Williams’ late friend and predecessor.
Tailoring was an Abloh staple. Here, there’s a single breasted brown wool two-piece in a supple camouflage pattern, but if you zoom in a little bit, you’ll see, upon close inspection, a world map. For the most part, though, suits were supplemented in favour of the sport-meets-street luxury attitude that Abloh catapulted to to the crux of the trend cycle throughout the 2010s. We’re talking about the intarsia-knits, preppy wool varsity jackets, baggy cargo pants and the oversized Damier check prints that “evoke the veins of Epi leather” according to the house. The masquerading map also crops up on a technical parka, a fleece jacquard jacket and swim shorts, appears diluted on a fleece gilet and track pant, and is reduced to a mere shadow on a puffer jacket with a faux fur collar.
There was room for disparate themes though, among them articles embedded with messages that seemingly hold no meaning: “Flyers”, “a trunk for six bottles and a suitcase for dolls”, “rework, remodel, repeat”, and “calligraphy and a violin case” spelled out in pearl embroideries.
Elsewhere, a smoke effect is created through oxidised flocked denim and seared into a monogram cargo suit as burning reds and oranges reminiscent of flames. A midnight blue fire motif materialises too, abstract in nature and daubed across some of Louis Vuitton’s iconic bags including the Sac Horizon, the Christopher backpack and Keepalls ranging from the classic to the 25 and the nano, as well as small leather goods and new expressions of the LV Discovery line.
Midway through, the fire begins to wane, its essence only in the enduring glow of the embers. The aurora borealis overhead becomes the only source of light and the collection begins to draw on the atmospheric environment of the deep woods at night. A dégradé pattern and spray-painted fade evoke the northern lights. Bottle green cotton tracksuits, flocked logo pyjama suits and a leather caban jacket embossed with Louis Vuitton lettering on the back, recontextualise the hues of moon-lit vegetation.
Every slick ensemble is underscored by footwear designed for dominating the outdoors: there’s a beige or blue suede trainer with trekking laces, a waterproof hiking shoe in black or navy, a derby loafer structured in black glazed leather, and an evening style in metallic midnight blue leather. The super-magnified LV Trainer Maxi also evolves in all-over black crystal with mini pearl logo detailing and enormous pearl lace charms.
Photography by Scandebergs.
