October 4, 2025 |
We hereby declare that Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, formerly the Proenza Schouler boys, are hence forth to be known as the Loewe boys. The New York superstars took the helm at Loewe after Jonathan Anderson left for Dior and brought a sporty energy to the Spanish leather house, sending out a hourglass moulded leather jacket over gym knickers and a popping palette drawn from sportswear.
They set the bright optimistic tone with Ellsworth Kelly’s Yellow Panel with Red Curve (1989) hung at the entrance to the show space. “Vibrancy and tactility” they said are the two elements fundamental to the house. They leaned into both with towel-like mini dresses and scrunched-up knits achieved with metal thread and leather jeans that were softly tufted.
There were plenty of playful elements as the designers revelled in the experimentation afforded them at the house and they brought tradition and tech together. Preppy button down shirts often worn in layers were in actually made from leather, not cotton. Bra tops were made to look like jumpers tied causally around the neck, a ground breaking silk gore-tex was used for coats and plush minidresses were made from 3D-printed fabric. As for the Amazona, it reflected the laid back vibe, and came one-handled, slouchy and worn zipped open. A huge cheer rang out when the designers took their bow. The Loewe boys done good.
Photography courtesy of Loewe.
