October 1, 2025 |
A cacophony of bold colours commanded the runway at Lanvin SS26 as Peter Copping presented his sophomore collection for the house.
If his debut earlier this year was about grounding himself in Lanvin’s legacy, this outing felt like a loosening of the shoulders. Copping stepped confidently into exploration, reframing Jeanne Lanvin’s codes with a freshness that never tipped into fuss. There was a lightness at play, from chiffon-veiled cabochons that softened embellishment to linings flipped outwards on tailored jackets, exposing the construction process with a sense of ease rather than severity.
Blue – not just ‘Lanvin blue’ but a whole spectrum of it – washed through the collection, bringing with it a calm clarity. Evening gowns suspended by grosgrain ribbons felt simultaneously delicate and strong, while the same ribbon transformed into men’s evening tops with a flicker of irreverence. The interiors of garments became exteriors, seams and revers celebrated as decoration, in an echo of Jeanne Lanvin’s obsession with refinement from every angle.
Accessories built on Copping’s January introductions: sharply pointed pumps and mules with ribbon flourishes, plus the Compagnon handbag rendered in plush matelassé leather. Overall, this was Lanvin stretching outward without losing the tenderness and restraint that make it feel eternal.
Photography courtesy of Lanvin.
