August 7, 2025 |
There’s a certain allure to Langan’s that reveals itself long before you’ve even stepped inside – not in grand gestures, but in the quiet charm of its Mayfair corner and the subtle promise of something memorable. Behind framed stone walls just a few steps away from Piccadilly, Michelin-starred chef Richard Shepherd was one of three who opened Langan’s in 1976. Now executive head chef Benjamin Mellor is bringing life back to the old glamour of the storied restaurant.
Spilling onto Stratton Street, the crimson glow of neon overhead lights offers a bold welcome to those passing by and a subtle nod to those in the know. Behind its tall windows and classical stone, Langan’s maintains its poise. It doesn’t need to compete for attention. Its presence is felt rather than declared, shaped by decades of stories and star-studded evenings attended by the likes of Elizabeth Taylor and Mick Jagger. So, whether you’re savouring indulgent dishes at Langan’s Brasserie or sipping bespoke cocktails at Upstairs at Langan’s – the members-only club located above the restaurant – you’re entering a into a culinary world where classic meets contemporary.
A suited-and-booted doorman met us with a knowing smile as we entered through the light-wrapped door frame with mirrored panels catching the lights of the bustling Mayfair traffic that drove past to our rear. The hustle and bustle of the city began to fade as we stepped inside and was replaced by the elegant murmurs of the brasserie, a space unfolding with art-deco marble floors and glittering green chandeliers made from Murano glass that hung low above the bar opposite the entrance. Golden art-deco table lamps sat on the marble bar creating intimate pools of light and the bar was fully stocked with premium spirits as chatty guests sat in their dark green raised stools subtly sipping glasses of champs.
As we swept into the glamorous heart of the restaurant, the scene hummed with energy – intimate couples and larger tables of impeccably dressed friends and families laughed over clinking glasses and refined dishes, the air alive with the soft rhythm of casual conversation. We took our seats at an immaculately set table – white linen, gleaming silver cutlery and paper-thin wine glasses. Cocooned in olive green velvet armchairs, the setting struck a perfect balance between modern and heritage. Across the room, a marble bar holding ice and topped with fresh fish made a striking statement while a nod to the upholstery came by the way of adornments like towering vases of tall British grown gladiolus and tropical foliage in fashion-forward hues of green and cream.
Every detail of the space felt curated, transforming the restaurant into a kind of gallery where contemporary art layered the walls. Works on display by both emerging and established artists notably celebrate creativity, diversity and heritage. Pieces by David Hockney graced the walls amongst other mesmerising artworks while compositions by Ella Kruglyanskaya and France-Lise McGurn adorned the back of the menus, paying homage to Langan’s artistic past.
First to the table was the Langan’s Fizz, a signature serve that arrived in a slender champagne flute, its rim artfully brushed with a stroke of what appeared to be strawberry compote and topped with a vivid violet and saffron pansy flower. Inside, Ketel One vodka and Champagne seamlessly paired with a melon and lemongrass cordial and lots of ice. Equally enticing was the Queen’s Garden, the perfect tipple for a midsummer dinner in August. Served in a tall glass with one long ice cube, Kew Gin and pomello aperitif are gently stirred with elderflower cordial, cucumber, mint and a squeeze of lime of tonic with a final flourish of fresh mint and an orange pansy flower. Then, once we had placed our food order, our very French waiter brought over a perfectly chilled bottle of Sanscerre: a dry white wine, with fruity notes that lent itself well to what was to come.
A procession of starters established the mood with both theatre and precision. A pea panna cotta, light and silken, arrived with spears of English asparagus and flecks of crumbled feta, the savoury edge softened by a drizzle of honey. It was a dish full of garden freshness ripe for indulgence. From the nearby ice-laden fish counter, a chargrilled mackerel – one of the day’s specials – made its way to the table next. The maître d’ glazed the fillet in a sunshine-yellow butter sauce at the table. The fish fell from the bone in soft, smoky flakes, delivering a deeply savouring flavour. It’d be remiss not to mention the two meter Tuna fish caught off the English Coast just a few days prior to our dinner that weighed in at 109kg. Three slices were topped with olive oil, salt, crowned with spring onion and delicate dollops of avocado, each lusciously tender and full of flavour.
The mains followed, a 220g Aged Hereford Filet Mignon was a classic delicacy – its perfectly seared crust giving way to a pink, medium-rare centre, finished with a braised shallot, its sweetness nearly jam-like in its intensity. On the side, golden chips – crisp-edged and fluffy-centred and sautéed spinach were a perfect companion to the meat. Then came a rosy Salmon fillet – lightly roasted, sat in a pool of creamy beurre blanc. Paper-thin rounds of pickled cucumber were delicately arranged along the top, their sharpness playing beautifully against the richness of the sauce and the buttery flake of the fish. Finally, rigatoni, perfectly al dente, coated in a velvety parmesan cream sauce, topped with generous dollops of King’s caviar, a stark colour difference from the light sauce. The roe cut effortlessly through the richness, offering pops of salt that elevated the dish into something far beyond comfort food.
We then turned our attention to the sweet crescendo of the evening: dessert – always a non-negotiable. The menu was diverse in choice offering pairings of dessert wines with each dish. We chose the Cherry Bakewell Soufflé – its airy texture giving way to the richness of a cherry compote and a generous scoop of Amaretto ice cream on the side which was topped with lightly toasted flaked almonds. The Madagascar Vanilla Crème Brûlée is timeless, quietly confident and a classic. Its caramelised top shattered with the tap of my silver spoon, revealing a delicately set custard, rich with vanilla and golden in colour. Finally, Crème Caramel, a dessert which takes me down memory lane, devouring one after school and tipping the pot upside down to allow the caramel to drip down the sides. This Crème Caramel was far more chic than a corner shop treat though. Paired with sour yet sweet pickled blackberries which sat around the creamy dessert, with vanilla seeds and caramel cascading down the sides, it was colourful, delicious and nostalgic.
As a distinguished setting where luncheons transition seamlessly into dinners. Langan’s really embodies a timeless sense of elegance. The menu pays homage to British culinary tradition, thoughtfully infused with a French flair, with offerings ranging from seasonal dishes to expertly executed cocktails. Above the restaurant, the ambiance shifts, Upstairs at Langan’s is an art deco masterpiece: softly lit, adorned with rouge-toned velvet and delicate crystal glassware. By day, it offers a serene retreat for Mayfair’s creatives and tastemakers; by night it transforms, music pulses and champagne flows. Langan’s remains an enduring fixture in London’s social and gastronomic scene – a destination where taste, style and atmosphere flawlessly collide.
Photography courtesy of Langan’s.
