February 23, 2025 |
Fashion shows don’t usually feel like a full-blown cultural explosion, but this one did. Abbey Road Studios was alive with raw energy – heavy basslines, electrifying performances and a crowd that wasn’t just watching but fully immersed. Akala’s spoken word set the tone, his razor-sharp delivery commanding the room before D Double E, Ghetts, and Wretch 32 took over, their flows weaving through the air as Ezra Collective’s jazz-fueled instrumentals pulsed beneath them. It wasn’t just a show; it was a party, a protest, a moment of pure, unfiltered expression.
Models moved through the space like they belonged there, their presence effortless and assured. Foday Dumbuya’s AW25 collection was Labrum at its most elevated – sharp, fluid and steeped in heritage. Think structured wool coats with exaggerated lapels, boxy pinstriped tailoring softened by flowing shirting and utility vests reimagined with intricate embroidery. Adidas’ three stripes were reborn with cowrie shell embellishments, bridging African tradition with streetwear legacy, while the Trapper Snapper hat – crafted from upcycled track pants in collaboration with Lucy Barlow – proved that sustainability and innovation go hand in hand.
The space, steeped in music history, amplified every moment. The beats hit harder, the fabrics moved freer and the energy was undeniable. Abbey Road has hosted legends, but this? This felt like something new. A celebration of identity, rhythm and rebellion – a night that didn’t just showcase fashion but made you feel it.
As the final beats faded and the models took their last strides, Foday Dumbuya stepped forward, his voice cutting through the lingering energy in the room. He spoke of migration, music and identity – how it was these artists that performed who helped pave the way for music to be what it is today. “We integrate our culture [African culture] into British culture and something is born out of it; and it’s that joy that we celebrate tonight,” he declared, a call to celebrate culture, movement and the power of community. “So if your parents are immigrants make some fucking noise!” he shouted. The crowd roared in response, a fitting end to a show that felt less like a runway and more like a revolution.
Photography courtesy of Labrum.
