Kiko Kostadinov’s got a new look. That’s not entirely true: the designer’s signature retro futuristic stylings were all there, led by his impressive pattern cutting prowess. Though, for his AW26 outing, it was as if the designer had hit the refresh button. His show notes spoke of returning “to the primary language of construction and material”, stripping the collection of print in favour of one colour looks that let each piece’s fluid, geometric construction take centre stage.
There was plenty to marvel at here. Tunic-style jackets came with origami folds. Silhouettes were fluid, from elongated suit jackets paired with slouchy trousers to swirling cotton dresses. As the collection progressed, blacks and muted blues transitioned into mustard yellows and crimson, where a series of all nylon looks that closed the show looked like jockey uniforms that were chopped and reconfigured. In stripping things back, you could truly appreciate the technical brilliance of Kostadinov’s work. It was another solid outing from one of London’s finest.
Photography courtesy of Kiko Kostadinov.
