Kenzology: “the study of an evolutionary wardrobe cultivated from the bridge-building perspective of a Japanese designer in Paris”. This is the sentiment Nigo built his SS25 men’s and women’s collection around, with the intent to refine the “culturally interwoven language” that he has developed at Kenzo during his tenure.
Staging the show in the fountain-dotted gardens of Paris’s Palais-Royal – a destination dear to the designer – models sauntered along a sand strewn path. Rendered in tapestry jacquards and embroidered denim, with beaded motifs, tiger prints, jungle flowers and Chiku-rin Camo, men wore classic, everyday garments with an East-West sensibility over jojo flip flops created in collaboration with the Koyoto-based heritage artisan Gion Naito. Continuing his creative exchange with the archives of Kenzo Takada, Nigo’s offering included sport-centric outerwear and relaxed four-button tailoring or fisherman’s vests and baggy satin trousers informed by the tobi-shoku worn by Japanese scaffolders.
Women donned contrast-colour wrap dresses or crochet gowns, hanjuban (kimono undergarments), lavishly fringed and draped scarf dresses and pieces adapted from the traditional obe. Regardless of sex, the bags brought onto the catwalk were absolute standouts. Tucked under arms and strung over shoulders, Nigo’s cast carried netted fishing, fluffy market and vibrant evening bags, as well as ruched backpacks or modernised versions of the traditional Edo-period knapsack. The 25 bag also cropped up in a cracked leather that mimicked the sun-blanched skins of the collection.
Calling upon Verdy for the second time, the Japanese graphic artist added an animated touch to signature Kenzo motifs like dragonflies, tigers, elephants and the boke flower. These appeared on small leather goods and in metal badges, brooches and charm bracelets. Perfect for summertime in the city.
Photography courtesy of Kenzo.
