Unfolding as a cinematic tapestry of cross-cultural references, Nigo’s AW24 Kenzo collection worked to establish a new faction of elegance. It was street-informed evening wear and elevated uniforms injected with a healthy dollop of retrofuturism. He called it Magic Galaxy, and described it as a “universal wardrobe spun from the Occident to the Orient [west to east].”
George Lucas’ use of Akira Kurosawa’s samurai films in the creation of the Star Wars universe was his point of departure. That completely fantastical world was mimicked and remade here, resulting in men’s and womenswear wherein Japanese details and silhouettes were infused with sci-fi formations. For example, a kimono coat was cut with the lines of a warrior cape and an intricate weave riffed off of the wood print of Japanese ‘hakeshi baten’fireman jackets.
Menswear silhouettes also evolved from Japan’s red ‘gakuran‘ schoolboy suit, which morphed into both tailoring and voluminous outerwear. The loose, elongated silhouettes were infused with sashiko embroidery and beading, and worn with futuristic skate shoes or biker boots. For women, opulent twinsets were nipped in at the waist by judo belts.
Nigo also paid homage to the Western-meets-Eastern sounds of late musicians Ryuichi Sakamoto and Yukihiro Takahashi (who both died in 2023) of the Japanese electronic band Yellow Magic Orchestra (YMO). The duo adapted ‘gakuran’ school uniforms for the stage; Nigo adapted them for the runway. It was fitting then, that Cornelius – who played with YMO during their final tour – composed the show’s soundtrack. It was a poignant, full-circle moment.
Photography courtesy of Kenzo.
