March 3, 2024 |
“I want to express the beauty of the contrast between clothes and sculptures,” said Junya Watanabe of his AW24 collection. The result was akin to wearable art. Sculptural triangle shapes were fixed together and worn like empty frames around the the body. Jutting geometry distorted tailored coats or created windows onto the clothes beneath. Those were terrific. The came tailored black trousers or crinolined maxi skirts strung with multiple-belts and worn with black polo necks. The triangles and origami spikes of the outer pieces morphed from hard geometry into swirling ergonomic loops of flat pattern pieces, circling the torso or coming as supersized quilted tubes, knotted and worn as capes. Coats were classically tailored at the top, before morphing into a pyramid of triangular cut-outs windows, revealing surprisingly sweet floral-print dresses beneath. Others were slung with multiple belts and studded punkish shapes.
Backstage there was talk of armour and protection, creating space between the body and the clothes and the clothes and other people; a Junya fashion force-field, if you like. Sold!
Photography by Christina Fragkou.
