September 22, 2017 |
More fresh Milanese meat, and this time there’s two of them: Lucie Meier, her of ex-Dior, and Luke Meier, him of OAMC and ex-Supreme. Notice how they share a surname? They’re married. Aw. Today was their first outing proper for Jil Sander (they showed a Resort collection via lookbook a couple of months ago) – so: what’s new? Not a massive amount, actually, but I suppose that’s the point – it was respectful, the starting point a homage to Jil under Jil – the original (and still brilliant) logo remained, printed extra big on the invite (and later on leather bags), the chosen space a clinical white box with a geometric strip of blue sky above. Clothes wise, too, there was a nostalgia for Jil’s genius – clean lines, clean cuts, cleaner boys and girls – white shirts, buttoned up to the collar, a palette of navy, white and black. But there was something looser about their take – it was less severe, choosing instead volume – roomy shirt dresses and wide sleeves dwarfed the body. Somewhere around the middle we saw glimpses of what might be their own vision, and direction, which seemed focussed on tactility – garments were ruched or woven, left raw at the hem or finished with maxi-stitches. A series of spidery patchwork mohair knits closed things out. This wasn’t a full-on revolution, but these two are just settling in. Let’s see what’s next.
Photographs by Jason Lloyd Evans
