February 25, 2017 |
Jil Sander’s girls are getting their glitz on. They don’t let their hair down often (call them disciplined) so take this as an occasion. Because the show ended with a glitzy metallic moment (we’re sniffing a bit of a trend here, Bottega’s ladies earlier were similarly molten) coming through in wide-shouldered drapey lurex and lame dresses, some that wrapped around the waist like tied sleeves. Can’t help but reference Quality Street here – something about a coloured metallic situation always summons up a strawberry cream. Elsewhere, there was that play on tailoring that Rodolfo has made a bit of a signature, big and boxy – here in red wool and black leather, that shape becoming softer, more rounded as the show went along – the sleeves on dresses and blazers curved, the silhouette pumped up with puffa jackets that sat on top. It ended with a bit of a fashion whisper – would this would be Rodolfo Paglialunga’s final collection for Jil? If (and we emphasise “if” here) this is the case – then how better to make your exit than with a bit of sparkle?
Photographs by Jason Lloyd-Evans
