Jacquemus made fashion history yesterday, debuting on the official Paris Fashion Week schedule for the first time ever with a collection that unfolded like an ode to 1950s couture, wrapped up in Simon Porte Jacquemus’s unmistakable charm. Staged in the storied apartment of French architect Auguste Perret – who pioneered the use of reinforced concrete – the show marked a new era for the brand. It was more polished, more poised, but at its core, still fearlessly playful.
This was Jacquemus growing up, but with a wink and nudge. Cocooning caban jackets were layered over swishy circle skirts and brought a cinematic elegance, while poplin hourglass dresses hugged the body with the precision of couture. There was a nostalgic romance to it all, but never heavy-handed – Jacquemus’s playful streak surfaced in surprising proportions and mid century-modern finishes (polka dots, stripes and velvet), making the past feel unmistakably new and now.
The star-studded front row added to the occasion, with Pamela Anderson and Tyla stealing the spotlight, the latter in a barely-there black gown that channeled the ‘naked dress’ trend with unapologetic sophistication. Not to mention the catwalk itself which welcomed model of the year Alex Cosani, Mona Tougaard and Christy Turlington to caress the catwalk in their elegant ensembles.
Jacquemus on schedule is a statement. So as you might expect, the collection didn’t just fit into Paris Fashion Week – it stood out. It was a confident step forward for a brand that knows exactly where it’s going.
Photography courtesy of Jacquemus.
