September 29, 2023 |
How do you turn ephemeral ideas like light and wind into tangible shapes? That’s the question Satoshi Kondo, artistic director at Issey Miyake, hoped to answer in the brand’s latest runway show. Walking into the space, guests immediately noticed the set, which featured pleated pieces of washi paper, appearing as if they were floating in air. Designed by Yoshihisa Tanaka to resemble membranes, the shapes are meant to move and interact with the air in the room as people pass by. In the center of the runway were musicians, playing soothing nature sounds that were equal parts white noise and cooing bird noises. While the room waited for the show to begin dancers, clad in black and white, interacted with the installations, exploring and laying beneath them.
The show kicked off with an extended interpretive dance before opening with a section called Ambiguous, a series of gauzy cotton knits in shades of black, white, and lavender that hugged and draped across the body. Some models wore hoods, adding to the mysterious effect. Next was Twining, a duo of looks in black and orange that Kondo conceived as inspired by a flag fluttering the sky. Featuring a twisted design, the lightweight, voluminous textured fabric appeared to float and wind across the arms, legs, and torso. A third section calls back to the idea of light, aptly entitled Light Leak. Consisting of photo prints that feature blurred gradients, they’re created by deliberately exposing camera film. These looks were bright and served as palate cleanser before the show segued into the final three sections.
Enveloping, the fourth moment, uses a material that is woven with Japanese washi paper and polyester. Made from one piece of fabric, these twisted and fastened draped dresses play with the idea of depth and shadows across the body. Fixed in Time, the next-to-last grouping of looks have a two-dimensional effect, as if the outfits were pressed and flattened. And finally, to close, Twisted, three looks made by twisting a piece of fabric and designed to resemble as if it naturally formed over the body. Adorned with floppy hats, there was a lightness and ease to them, showcasing Kondo’s deftness in making formless ideas take shape in substantial ways.
Photography courtesy of Issey Miyake.
