December 7, 2023 |
“I make modern clothes for modern women,” says Ukrainian designer Svitlana Bevza, founder and creative director of minimalist brand Bevza. “This was a childhood dream; I’d dreamed of it since I was five.” Despite graduating from school back in 1999 and then pursuing a degree in economics, she never gave up on her dream of entering into the wonderful world of fashion design. “I even remember, I used to draw a fashion House, and I told my mum – in a literal sense – that I want my own one day. Ever since, I’ve been sketching clothes. I started everything from scratch.” Since the launch of her namesake label over a decade and a half ago, Bevza expresses a sense of pride toward how well her unique and masterfully crafted designs have been received. Known for a muted colour palette, effortlessly sleek, functional designs and a “less but luxe” aesthetic mentality, after 12 seasons showing at New York Fashion Week, an invitation to attend the Met Gala – from Balenciaga’s Demna no less – as well as a whole slew of other remarkable fashion moments, Bevza is on its way toward global domination.
Having captivated the global fashion landscape with its popularisation of Ukrainian culture by way of an emphasis on traditional design features and the use of nationalist symbols, the designer asserts, “Bevza is one of the leading pioneers in the Ukrainian fashion industry. I launched it in 2006, and we are still forecasting.” It’s been nearly three years since Russia declared war on Ukraine, since the designer fled her home without much more than her children and the clothes off her back to live in New York, then London, and as you might imagine, she’s found that holding on to her roots has never been more important. Bevza continues to conduct its operations in the Motherland as its eponym believes Ukraine to have the highest-standard of skilled workers – who can provide top-notch care and quality to her creations, whilst proudly representing the values of their country.
Svitlana Bevza, founder and creative director of Bevza
Since its start, the sophisticated label has showcased a vast versatility of its designs, combining elements of traditional Ukrainian dress with modern ideas and simple, blank-canvas creations (Bevza is known for playing into the precise edge of white) to create a completely unique brand identity. Even before the war, Bevza was built on the national symbols that its founder holds close to her heart. “These [symbolic] ideas came to me quite genuinely. But I had to walk a fine line, in order to not turn the brand into a replica of Ukraine’s national attire,” she shares, referring in particular to the Spikelet accessories, inspired by Ukrainian culture, that she creates. “[I follow a] minimalist foundation, on which I apply the important messages that I want to convey to my audience. As a designer, I believe that it’s necessary to form your visual style naturally. It should not come from a place of being similar to someone or something else. Actually, delivering your own stylistic message is a responsibility.”
Known globally for its Spikelet jewellery, the chevron-esque line is a central pillar of the Bevza brand. First shown in New York in 2019, the Spikelet motif – inspired by wheat – was a way of translating a story about the beauty of Ukrainian landscapes, referring in particular, to the Eastern European country’s status as one of the top exporters of grains worldwide. Since the start of the war, the Spikelet has become a sartorial symbol that represents what Ukrainians are fighting for – freedom, the preservation of their culture and history, and peace. “The land that we defend feeds a lot of other countries,” she says. “For us, wheat has always been a sacred symbol and is the core symbol for Bevza.” Spikelet necklaces especially – though it also appears across belts, bags, bracelets and earrings – became popular rather quickly, not only amongst the women that had to flee Ukraine following the tumultuous institution, and bitter ugliness, of the Russian war on the country, but also among women all over the world. Women felt drawn to Spikelet’s beauty and its powerful connection to Ukrainian heritage, its fertile land and its people’s bravery and dedication to hard work.
With every uber-chic collection, Bevza continues to implement fresh takes on its Spikelet design. Just yesterday, it released its SS24 bag collection, applying gold Spikelet hardware to five new styles; the Grain Bag, Baguette Clutch, Spikelet Flat Bag, Large Tote and Spikelet Clutch, which have arrived in lush Dusty Ivory or Black leather colourways. “Ukrainian [symbolism] or any other cultural symbolism should appear modern,” the creative director says, and these sculptural bags most certainly do. For the campaign, Bevza channelled Agnes Denes’ iconic 1982 artwork “Wheatfield – A Confrontation” which displays a two-acre wheatfield grown on an empty landfill next to the World Trade Center.
Bevza SS24 Bag campaign
As part of its SS24 collection, Bevza featured Marigolds (or ‘Chornobryvets’ in Ukrainian), a vibrant and colourful flower that’s long been a symbol of optimism and revival in Ukrainian culture, adored by writers, poets and people alike. “Personally, I strongly associate marigolds with home. These were my grandfather’s favourite flowers and he contributed a lot to my upbringing as a Ukrainian. He once gave me some seeds, and I was growing the flowers in my Kyiv apartment for 13 years straight,” she reminisces. “Unfortunately, I can’t come back to that apartment now, on account of the war, but I wanted the marigolds to bloom somewhere else.” So, the ingenious designer skillfully incorporated the look of marigold flowers, via a vibrant red and orange marigold print, into both the clothing and the jewellery of the range and beauty bloomed.
With a focussed approach to cut, tailoring and Ukrainian craftsmanship Bevza describes her practice as the “nature of intuition”. “I do what I like,” she declares. “When it comes to tailoring and designing, I make my decisions intuitively. I’ve noticed that if I do it that way, it is more demanding.” Drawn to architectural silhouettes and lines because “they show character’ according to the designer, Bevza’s skirts, shirts, vests and trousers are usually carefully pleated in place. “But I also add a touch of sensuality to my designs,” she adds, “[because] a woman is a complex being, a complex creation; she consists of multiple facets.”
Bevza SS24
Speaking of women, the Bevza girl, according to the designer, can be absolutely anyone. “It’s you, it’s me, it’s somebody you see on Instagram…or don’t see. In my collections, the clothes are made for the modern woman,” she explains. “She’s also a woman that follows merit principles in life. Not only do we constantly aim to improve our production processes, we also think about the children and what air they will breathe tomorrow. We don’t make clothes just for the sake of just making clothes; a Bevza girl is someone who relates to our values. They find us in themselves, they just get the message.”
By prioritising comfort and the quality of its clothing with a sustainable mentality, Bevza treats its design process as an investment that should last consumers a longtime, if not a lifetime. This commitment to sustainability is deeply embedded in Bevza’s DNA. Its distinctive seashell elements and sailor tops are made from recycled plastic bottles and convey the values of sustainability in a sophisticated manner. “The seashell design, symbolically, represents a pearl, and the meaning behind it is an image of a [powerful] woman,” Bevza starts, “A woman can change the future for the better.” Bevza began recycling ocean plastics back in 2018 in collaboration with Italian fabric recycling factory and sustainable industrial yarn producer Pinori Filati, solidifying its commitment to minimising waste in both the fashion industry and wider world.
For Bevza, social impact is of the utmost importance. Since the start of the war started in February 2022, a wide range of industry personnel and companies have shown support for Ukraine, blurring the line between aesthetics and activism. Bevza itself, announced partnerships with a variety of well-known, non-profit organisations such as Future for Ukraine – which offers aid to children and mothers who’ve been displaced or otherwise affected by the war. Recently, Bevza partnered up with MasterCard to create a special jewellery collection that was presented across 19 countries. Therein, the Kalyna berry (“Guelder” Rose or Highbush Cranberry in English) – a cherished Ukrainian symbol representing resistance to political oppression and foreign domination – was used to create a pin, a pendant and pair of earrings, and the money raised from sales was donated to Ukraine House DC Foundation to help finance aid for children in need of prosthetics and rehabilitation. “I’d like to believe that my activity is broader than just making clothes. It’s a mission to spread the values that I believe in; it’s about showing how a woman can change the world for the better,” Bevza relays. “Charity is our duty, there’s no other way. The future of our nation depends on it so I try to step in as a recourse. It is my duty.”
Going forward, Svitlana Bevza plans to focus on the creative side of things while maintaining the brand’s rich, cultural identity and remarkable business pursuits. Whatever the outcome, we’re buzzing to see what’s in store. Bevza is a force for change. Watch it soar.
Photography courtesy of Bevza. Shop Bevza’s SS24 Bag collection here.
Svitlana Bevza, founder and creative director of Bevza
