July 3, 2017 |
Hermés, can we count the ways that we love you? No, apparently, we have a word limit. And we’ve been told off for rambling. But it’s a lot. Can’t help but feel I am an Hermès woman born into a non-Hermès (poor) woman’s body. Today’s pre-collection took place in their store, which seems right – Hermès is about things to buy. There are ideas here – don’t get us wrong – the slinky, summery take on their silk scarf dress, scarves that also twisted round the girl’s waists, fresh touches of sportswear – top stitching and toggle fastenings – or those luminous Seventies swimsuits that fastened around the neck with rope. Garth was particularly fond of them. Said it was a moment. That all felt new.
But what Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski is so adept at as Artistic Director (the first woman in the role) is taking the things that Hermès is known for – incredible leather, for one, those silk scarves, accessories – and refiguring the clothing that isn’t far from everyday life into something wholly, eye-wateringly luxurious. And it’s that mix that gives her womenswear an ease that is so appealing – to the casual viewer and the customer alike. The woman next to me was one of those – she’d flown in from Germany especially – circling away furiously at the looks she wanted to buy. And what better measure of a luxury house’s success than that? The will to buy buy buy? Nadège may not present clothes with fanfare – but she’s on to a very good thing.
